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Thanks very much

Trying to get onto mail the following message appears "Outlook Express could not be started because MSOE.DLL could not be loaded." can anybody help please?

I know you didn't want to go to any great expense but a router with side fence does a great job ( still have to square up corners with a chisel). Looking through screwfix cat. cheapest router plus cutter comes out at just over £30 and you end up with very useful tool. I just put up 3 fire...

Ivor....where are you? now that you have told me how easy it all is I was hoping to pick your brain, ( who was that who said shouldn't take long? don't be so rude).

A good result, well done.

Ivor you may have a bigun but it certainly isn't between your ears.

Do not worry about the installation too much they all come with information and the shop will tell you about housings etc. General tips: Make sure there is enough depth to get the appliance all the way in, pipes etc it the way. Don't site electrics behind the appliance. Follow the size...

Yes I think your quoted price is too high, I have not seen your place so it is difficult to say by how much. Your best bet is to get a couple more quotes, if they are all about the same, at least your know you have not paid over the odds.

I've seen router courses but can't recall seeing one just for mitres. If you can already use a router I would suggest getting hold of some worktop and practice, the jigs come with instructions. My local Wickes has damaged tops at £10 for a 3mtr. length, a couple of them has got to be cheaper...

So what was the £2000+ for exactly?

The way I read it is that you are doing the first part of the work yourself, is that right?

Don't be silly, no-nails only works on cabinets, for a fridge/freezer you would need grip fill.

Most standard worktops are 600 wide ( MFI 616), sinks are in the range 490-515. I always try to allow a bit more at the front than the back, (10-15), the reason for this, less of the cross rail is lost. You have the choose when fitting a sink, in situ, or on supports away from the units. I...

On most MFI integrated fridges, the door hinge is attached to the side panel and a sliding unit is attached to both doors so that they open together. Are you sure that the hinge has broken, or have the 2 parts of the hinge seperated?

aidy_is Just to set the record straight, there are only three subjects I know enough to talk about, kitchens (my job), tools (my passion) & to a lesser extent furniture making ( my hobby), in everything else I'm a d.i.y.er and have already picked up some useful help from this site. I...

I have tryed proper breeze block fixings but did not find them that great ( could have been using them incorrectly), I always use 2inX10 pozidrives in a good fitting red plug, so far so good ( that's the kiss of death).

aidy_is I know this is a diy forum but a lot of the information given, is from pros. which in my book is priceless. I was not trying to belittle your efforts as I pointed out. What I was pointing out is that you did not produce a mason mitre ( the thread after all is mason mitres) and there...

Sorry back again. I have just read aidy_is posting again and it sounds like he has done a basic mitre ( sorry I am not trying to take anything away from your efforts) If you go to page 2 of mitre jig, Masona has posted a picture of the jig. If you could do it any other way, why bother to make...

I think people are getting confused by these mitres. A basic mitre is NOT a mason mitre. A basic mitre is cutting from the front edge to the back edge at 45 deg. The problems start when walls are out of square, both angles have to be adjusted to correct, if you don't the lengths are...

EddieM What dismanteling & refitting are you having done?