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Yes that works but will also need permanent live and neutral to the heatlink.

Are you on cover with them? If you need a second opinion/quote for remedial you can find me on yell. Im based in aberdeen

Pump may still be siezed and not spinning even if its humming

Edited as misread. Didnt see you had a pressure guage so rules out my thinking

Hi. The mi genie wish 2 pack is what you need. The mitime doesn't allow internet/phone control

What's the difference in that and them buying from a normal spares online shop?

get someone in to check it and make sure it's safe, by opening combustion chamber and replacing fan which is connected to flue, you have already done more than you're competent to do with regards to safety checks required to ensure boiler is safe for you or any potential new owners.

Cheers. I was confused as sse and homeserve are two different companies that offer maintenance plans.

Sse? Thought it was homeserve? Or are they linked down south?

Yes should be able to free same way. I only highlighted it Incase you thought the system had Been cleansed. I would leave it in for a day with heating on and then flush it all out like you did before. Remembering to add inhibitor when all cleaned out and refilling system.

026 is faulty receiver on dt10rf

Sorry if I misunderstand, Did you say the cleanser was added after you flushed the radiators with water then drained out again as boiler wasn't working? Or have I read it wrong

Can't see why it needs more inhibitor after 2 years. Can't comment on price as I don't know the usual costs down that way but he should t be putting in inhibitor without permission first if charging extortionate money for the privilege (inhibitor not service) On another note, as vc brought up...

This previous post may help if it's the relay issue http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/worcester-24i-rsf-l-combi-hot-water-problem-please-help.210558/

Can't see why not. Boiler mates work under principle store is always hot and when there's a heating demand, a switch is made and sends power to heating pump to circulate around radiators so can't see why a wireless thermostat won't do the same job in activating the pump via a relay.

manual says temp sensors should be between 690 ohms and 33k ohms. Pump doesn't run for hot water demand mode on these.

Correct me if wrong, but does part L not say "recommended minimum requirements" when relating to room thermostats etc? Or does it say you "must" have the interlocks?

Without seeing it, it's a guess but Could be temperature sensor faulty or heat exchanger restriction problems which is in turn causing overheating and the sensor is reading above 70 degrees and shuts boiler down until it falls below 70 again. Cycle repeating itself. Btw. Love the pic, bubbles...

Could be open vent model and engineer assumed sealed. Therefore no pipe outside req

Pop a bucket or similar under the filter if possible. Remove the screw cap which is used to turn the isolation point at bottom of filter, remove the magnet (black plastic) and open the valve catching water in the bucket or hose if you are draining system via this.