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Expert I am not. Sand to create a key, clean, apply solvent based undercoat, apply your solvent gloss. Beware that white and some other colours of solvent based paints when used in low light areas (indoors) yellow quickly. Arguably gloss finish yellows quicker than other finishes.

Sand to create a key. Sand the edges of the paint a bit more to make them thinner. If you decide to use filler, get a wide knife (taping knife, small plasterer's trowel whatever you like) and fill from over the paint onto the plaster as wide as you can go. Sand again .. the idea is to create...

What is "poly"? Use higher grade than 180 and once you stop having too much raised grain use "in between coats" sandpaper, certainly not 120 grade. You remove too much of the "poly" and you end up back where you were and damage the surface at the same time.

Unless you have removed all the wall paper paste carefully, use Zinsser Gardz. You may have to do quite a bit of sanding and filling to get an even level surface between bare plaster and old paint.

Brasso and elbow grease.

Only to say, that the photo you posted is not of "black" units but some dark grey/charcoal [at most] colour. Black will be a lot more in your face. Find some samples of what you think you like and remember, that is a one way trip.

Use Toupret powder filler (around £7-8 for a 2kg box), better and safer.

... or get a structural engineer or similar to inspect the house.

Check Bedec Multi surface paint. Alternatively you can go down the route of a high adhesion primer and then put what you like on top of it.

Neither is at fault. The plaster could have cracked at any time when someone stepped a bit more heavily on the steps. It is weak plaster at that point and probably a previous crack was already there.

How about checking BIN's own data sheet here: http://www.zinsseruk.com/core/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/B-I-N.pdf See the Recommended Uses, it can be used on walls, ceilings etc., including the sealing of unpainted plaster based materials. All these surfaces are normally coated with water based...

Cold showers. Problem solved.

You must clean the old mould and kill the spores (specialist products of bleach). Rinse afterwards. Do not paint over mould.

If you have an off cut try sanding it down and see what happens, i.e. how much sanding you will have to do. If you sand "much" you are likely to remove any treatment the wood has had. You can't mask/treat the marks unless you stain the bench with something very dark in which case you might as...

A stain is translucent so it allows you to see the grain of the wood. If you see the grain you will see the stains. Sorry :-(

We agree :-)

Look at doors from the closing side [if I am getting my sides correct]. You will find a lot of finger dirt underneath the handle area ... grease, sweat n' all sorts of other assorted carp. That is where the finish will be attacked, the same as banisters where finger tips touch. Just sayin...

OSMO door oil, is oil. What is the water based oil you are talking about?

After cutting in you may have to use the brush vertically to fill in between the knobbly bits. Use a longer pile roller sleeve than whatever you are using to paint ... you are not getting enough paint on the wall or in between the knobbly bits.

There appear to be wet patches in your photos (the darker patches seem to be the wetter areas). You got to give everything longer to dry before you can tell if you have a problem. If it is dry, then it needs another coat. Anyway, as far as the cutting in area coming up different to the rest...