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Thanks everyone for the replies, sorry haven’t been able to check in until now. So the consensus seems to be the new socket can be added without an FCU, if I can get 4 cables into the terminal of the original socket. If not, could I still add a 13A FCU just to ‘spread’ the terminals? So like...

Oh, but isn’t that what the alarm is doing now? Spur from ring socket, to FCU, to alarm? Different rules for a wired appliance as opposed to a socket?

@terryplumb Just to clarify, you’re saying spur from the supply side of the second FCU, as opposed to the load side of the first? Is there a technical / regulation difference between doing this and spurring both off the load side of the first as in my example? Seems like it does the same thing...

Hi all, bit of an ‘is this ok’ question, or could you suggest a better way....!? Want to add a socket in a hallway, but the tidiest socket to spur from already has a fused spur from it, supplying an alarm. The alarm spur is fused at 3A so not suitable for a double socket, but I don’t want to...

In our situation, access would actually be easier from the cold side because it’s simpler for us to get into the void from a hatch than it is to lift the boards to get at a cable/pipe. I could probably manage this with the cables but the pipes being fixed will have to stay where they are. The...

Thanks for the link - sounds like you did something similar to my plan, essentially rolls of loft insulation supported by netting. Good to know it can be done! Did you have to work around any pipes / cables? My instinct is to leave pipes above the insulation (on the warm floorboards side), but...

Hi all, Just had a room stripped back and skimmed, and while deciding on flooring options the idea of restoring the floorboards came up. They’re not in bad condition so that part of it should be relatively painless (if dusty!) but as we’re on the ground floor we’ll need to insulate. It’s a...

Sorry, no, thanks for clarifying that earlier. And I see that the difference is that by plugging in an extension, you remove one of the 13A outlets contributing to the possible maximum. So in that case as you say, it’s the fact that you could theoretically total 39A by using both original...

Ah yes the days of plugging in two or three of those cubes and propping them up with something so they stay in the wall... I was a naive teenager who really needed that PlayStation running through the surround sound etc....

Well, to confirm, the breaker on this circuit is 32A. Wylex NHXB32. I only have one 20A MCB on the whole CU and it’s feeding a totally different circuit with only two very close by sockets on it, presumed to be a very small radial in that case. Every socket on the circuit has 2.5mm going to...

interesting. I can check the breaker when I get home shortly. I could also trace the cables from that socket at least, but it would involve some under floor crawling! I was wondering, regardless of ring / radial, if I went with connecting an FCU after the socket and then adding the 2 new ones...

Wow, thanks for the info both. This forum pleasantly surprises me every time I use it. the neatest option would be to put the FCU under the stairs with the new sockets. 2 CABLES > ORIGINAL SOCKET > SINGLE T&E To FCU > SINGLE T&E To NEW SOCKET 1 > SINGLE T&E To NEW SOCKET 2 If I understand...

Hi all, I had a similar thread a while ago but not wanting to necro-post it and also to try and ask a more specific question, I wanted to start a new one. So: I have a double socket in a hallway, with 2 cables going into it, so assuming that it's either part of a ring circuit, or the mid-point...

Ok, I've not been able to check the thread for a few days and now I have some reading to do! Sorry if I've missed any details but: The cabling I've found in the sockets and FCUs so far all appears to be 2.5 T&E The sockets are mostly doubles but for 2 or 3 The (latest) question was really about...

Yeah. FWIW according to the listing the item was dispatched from the UK so technically pre-imported. But anyway not worth the risk of the quality being shoddy. I know exactly what you mean with regard to the difference between where it's made and how it's made! We've gone for one that's IP44...

Hmm. So assuming a more... reliable... mirror cabinet is installed with a BS rated shaver plug and rated for zone 2, and assuming the installers of the previous cabinet notified for the original work, perhaps putting a new one in isn't a problem? That's a lot of assumptions though eh!

Thanks both. Just trying to work out what historical work I need to correct having recently moved! In a couple of areas, they have taken two spurs from one ring socket, one unfused to another socket, and one to an FCU feeding an appliance (e.g. boiler, gas fire, etc). As you say although there...

I thought so. Think I already know the answer, but assuming spurring an FCU and an unfused socket from the same ring socket is a no-go too? (Apart from the issue with cramming 4 lots of cable into a socket's terminals)

You know, the more I look at the second drawing, the less it makes sense.... Thanks! So what about having an unfused spur with a fused spur taken from it, i.e: Would it depend what you were running after the FCU (i.e. a light might be ok but not a double socket), or is it a no-no altogether?

:LOL: I haven't. What are the chances of that conforming to British Standards, I wonder...