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It just doesn't feel as smooth on the worn part, despite cleaning all the crud off. The worn part looks like steel but the unworn part is shiny-shiny, iyswim? Hopefully, it is now bedding in and seems to be working..

Hi, Does anyone out there have the instructions for a Fernox Quantomat (MK1) phosphate doser they could scan and send me? I have asked Fernox but they sent me a link to the instructions for a TF1 filter and insist it's the same product...

Tony appears to know more about these boilers than Biasi themselves. £127 well spent.

Yes, pump proving pin. Certainly looks like worn plating; the unworn bits look a lot shinier than stainless steel, the worn part is a different colour entirely. Anyone know if Biasi substituted chrom plated pins on their boilers at any point? I suppose that's a question for Biasi themselves...

OK, well the boiler is now working fine! It was either the heat exchanger, crud in the DV valve or that little rubber washer..thanks to all who helped - I owe you all a few beers if you are down this way. However, I have uncovered another potential small issue. Sometimes the pin on the...

The previous boiler was so old, it was probably made before O Rings were invented! Anyway, DV vale re-assembled and I'll put it back in the boiler today/tomorrow along with the new heat exchanger and report back what happens..

OK, I have the DV valve in bits. I decided to overhaul it because it was weeping round one of the pins. Cleaning all the parts in a tray and I have found a little rubber O Ring. It's about 8mm OD and 3.5mm ID. I can't find it on any of the drawings for the DV valve and isn't supplied on any of...

UPDATE Parts haven't turned up yet but decided to take the heat exchanger off in preparation. To be honest I'm not sure it's the culprit. The DHW side is surprisingly clear, so clear that it's still shiny in places inside, which I don't think is bad for a 10 year old boiler in a hot water...

Worth checking that the electric DV actuator is fully operational and that the pin that controls the DV valve is free to move and not sticking. (Another thought..a longshot..do you have an anti scale device fitted on the cold feed? Is this blocked at all?)

How far is the pin popping out? A few years ago I had a similar issue and it was down to a duff micro-switch; yes, it worked when pressed like yours, but only responded at the end of its travel, which was too far for the pin to push it.

Overall reliability shows a similar picture, with german cars generally lower down the list than one would expect: http://www.whatcar.com/car-news/honda-named-uks-reliable-used-car-manufacturer-2015/1342848

German cars are some of the worst for engine reliability. It's only because of the "If only everything in life was as reliable..." advertising campaign and similar that people have been fooled into thinking German cars are reliable. The only company in recent years to offer engines less reliable...

Obviously if the car was registered in 1903, the picture could have been taken later.

I'm going to hazard a guess that it's a Mercedes, due to the shape of the radiator and the bar under the starting handle. This pic is of a 1904 Mercedes:

You can buy "gas leak detector fluid", which I think is just an industrial detergent mixed with water! I was told by someone that fairy liquid contains salt which can cause corrosion issues, whereas the pukka liquid doesn't, but I don't know how much truth there is in that.

I have ordered a new heat exchanger and service kit for the diverter valve as I noticed it's weeping very slightly around the pin (Although still working). I'll report back once I have resolved things! Thanks for the info about the boiler codes. Things are a little clearer! :)

From a customer point of view, if the plumber uses bargain basement chems, what else has he scrimped on?

Yes, most do specify before. I'd also have the new radiators powerfushed as they could contain all sorts of greases, welding splatter etc. from the manufacturing process.

Planning on installing a magnaclean/spirovent/other type of filter on my combi boiler in a few weeks (Once I have fixed it!). From a practical perspective does it matter if this is installed on the flow or return pipes? One pipe is easy to get to and the other a PITA...

Chips, at a guess!