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:oops: .

More detail is needed but, look down the page in the forum a bit and look at ravenheat c/h ok no h/w

To remove a single rad. Turn off valves at both ends. Get a container to catch the water (something that will fit under the valves). Make sure you have the valve body held tight, then carefully undo the large nut that holds the valve to the rad, loosening and tightening to allow the water...

Problem is most likely to be either an air lock or a blockage at the first elbow after a vertical dropfrom the header tank.

If you suspect a leak, phone British Gas they will run a test. If the leak is severe enough to warrant it they WILL turn you off and tell you to get it fixed. Can you smell gas anywhere in the house? you didnt say. Do the pipes run above ceiling in the floor or in the void below downstairs...

Nice one Rob. Original question though. I would consider how much money I would be tying up by buying and storing a boiler, that will be needed at some indeterminate future time. If the old one is so reliable, why bother? Especially as condensing boilers are, supposed to be, more efficient...

Anywhere from £35 to £150 (any more dont bother) depending wether or not you know a (corgi) plumber working for a firm, who will do pj's (private jobs). Mostly all that will be done is hoover it out to get rid of dead insects and muck.

If I remember right the system was off or drained for a couple of weeks. I have come across a similar prob but not as drastic. Firstly turn the boiler thermostat down when you isolate the working rads this should prevent scalding and over heating. Look at the pipes coming from the expansion...

Depending on why you want to drain the system now dictates where to drain it from (and what draincocks you have fitted). First turn off the boiler. Second, isolate the water supply to the small tank in the loft. If you need to drain the boiler itself, attach a hose to the drain cock and...

Manuals for boilers are always getting mislaid. My usual source for replacement is to contact the manufacturers through their web site and ask for one. To date I have not been disappointed. . and then it will cost (long intake of breathe between tight lips).

Shazzy32, don't worry English is not a subject that I paid a lot of attention to at school, so I maybe understood. To help, this is what i would do. If all your other rads are getting hot, turn em off, this should force water into your cold rads and heat em. If this works then you probably...

Do you still get hot/warm water when the heating has been off for a while? And does the boiler still light when the heating is switched off and you draw off hot water?

My own system is micro bore, 10mm to the front of the house and 8mm to the rear. I have had the same pump in for about 23 yrs now and (touch wood) it is still running on the 1st speed slow as it can go. all the rads still get hot fairly quickly (second hand back boiler make unknown). I was...

Water is heavier than air (cor thats news). Unless there is an expansion pipe or an auto or manual bleed valve at the highest point on the water heating circuit, then there is no way to get rid of air in that part of the system.

Another thought. Was the prv used to drain the boiler for the pump change? If so and it was already suspect then maybe after a 10 yr service life, the added use of this component might have been the final straw? maybe? Any other leaks 'leaking lockshield' should be sorted asap as these will...

The controller/timer is simply an automatic switch, therefore you could theoretically hard wire it and operate the boiler and pump manually, with the mains switch. At least that way if it blows again you will know it aint the controller.

Does the heating still work normally? Assuming it does and when you turn the stat up, does the water run hot and then cold again?

What system do you have? Combi or tanks and Cylinder?

Last couple of rads I cleaned out with those symptoms got warm all over again, but, the acid in the sludge had caused pinholes (blocked by sludge) and started leaking as soon as they were put back on.

Yes you are looking at the right bit, a replacement was found at , ezypart , these had the best price when phoning ask about washers for it, as none came with it. However, having got the thing to light after the replacement was fitted, it now seems that the gas flow modulater may be faulty as...