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The main reason for not allowing more than one spur per socket point is the cable size. Ring mains are wired in 2.5mm cable but because there are effectively two cables they are fused at 32A. A spur has a single 2.5 cable which is not rated to carry 32A so having multiple spurs on the same cable...

If you can test a fuse then try this. (power off of course) Join the red and black together in the upstairs switch, then test at the downstairs switch for continuity (your tester should light up or beep or whatever when you get the right red wire). These two should be the "strappers" and...

The following assumes you have some means of testing for voltage and for continuity (like testing a fuse). 1. Identify the live wire. (Call this L) 2. Identify the wire going to the light fittings (it will probably be in the opposite switch to the live) (Call this SW) 3. Check the switches to...

As I understand things up to here you only have 1 fitting that is not working. If you identify which lights are on which circuits (a usual layout would be downstairs lights, upstairs lights, outside lights) then you get a good idea of where your problems DONT lie and hence where to start looking.

You could use the spare way for a radial circuit, but you would be limited to 16A on 2.5mm cable and that would probably not be enough in a kitchen. If you are willing to go to the trouble of installing a radial circuit then its only a matter of some extra cable to make it into a ring, and...

If everything else is working correctly then you would seem to have done something wrong with the switch wire. The upstairs light which is also switched from downstairs should have either a three core cable, or an extra single cable, to make the two way switching work properly but you dont...

You cannot spur from a spur, or add two spurs at one point (ie consumer unit). What you could do is add a fused spur, or change the existing spur to a fused spur.

Nice to know about the IT thing, how about joining then we know who to ask for when we need help. If you have three fuses for lighting then you should have three circuits. Try removing (or turning off if they are MCB) each fuse in turn and see which set of lights stop working. This will give...

This can get very confusing so ask your retailer for advice. By definition (in the regs) 230V is defined as low voltage, but not all manufactures seem to have read these regs!! The "not for use etc.." could mean that its not designed to carry the full lighting circuit load (for all the lights)...

RE ABOVE, thats exactly the sort of thing I had in mind (just crap at explaining it:))

1. If the broken neutral is in the light previous on the circuit to the one that doesnt work then all the other lights will still have a neutral, and therefore work. 2. The upstairs circuit would normally be separate, but doesnt have to be. You could try turning off a lighting circuit and...

Obvious answer really, you have a broken netral somewhere. Possibly when you changed some other light fitting you neglected to reconnect a neutral wire that serves the loop. First place to check anyway.

How many cables do you have in S1 & S2?. If you have 2x cables in each then it sounds like the power loop has been run through the switches, unusual but not unheard of. This means that you will need to test for a complete power supply (live - neutral 230V) in each switch with the other switches...

I already have insulation on the "floor" up there, under where the boards are going to go. I was thinking of the loft space itself being better protected from the drafts etc that will get through the tiles, but it may be that stopping these will lead to damp. I'm not sure

I didnt intend sealing the loft right down to the soffits, just across the joists. I thought it may end up a bit warmer up there.

My roof is origonal 1940's rosemary tiles on lath and cement, with no underfelt. I'm in the process of boarding the loft out for storage and was wondering if I should put some sort of polythene sheet (visquene or some such) across the roof joists to keep the wind out. Would I create any damp...

Adding an extra light to the upstairs circuit would be simpler, it depends how old your installation is. If it's relatively new then you should be able to go to the last light in the circuit and just continue it, or come from the nearest ceiling rose, with live, neutral and earth to your switch.

Do you have a switch that lets you isolate the consumer unit? If not then I would not suggest going in there unless you know what you are doing. Even when you turn the consumer unit off it still has live wires in it.

There are a lot of "if's" to satisfy before you can do that. Would it not be easier just to place a double extension lead in the loft and plug it into the socket as and when you need it?

The maximun size of anything you can run from a plug is 3KW (3000W) or 13A, the size of a normal kettle or electric fire. Your new cooker should have a plate on it telling you the wattage or maximum current rating.