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Looking at your drawing the pad-stone looks to be a problem, 175mm would be fine as a bearing if the bearing is sound. But just to add, Building Control would want to sign this off before it gets covered up, so, if they haven't already signed it off don't cover it up. By the way your builder...

I wonder whats in the 4 ft slab! :!:

Personally I prefer concrete over timber, however you would only use B&B if you have a large void to cover ie; your damp course being high! Insulated concrete/screed slab with UFH would work well - 2 great conductors of heat. Essentially the B&B is a suspended concrete slab.

Similar type of ethos to us - I find it works well with the right customers.

I've got some 150's on the way, so at least my mind is at rest. Cheers

Out of pure interest, what is your way? AS we expand i'm Just interested in the different ways other people sell our services... And for what its worth, i'm with Noseall, I do it the old fashioned way too.

Whilst I feel for you a little bit, I can't help but think you just did what you wanted and now you're paying for it! And I believe that there is more to this story than you are letting on.... Earlier you mentioned that the Architect waited a week and then told the builder to get on with it...

Well.....thats not entirely true is it?!

I was reading on through this post hoping someone would say something like this, i'm glad you did noseall. They are weird and busy body like, but we can't all start doing what we want. It baffles me - if the builder had made the decision to do it, he'd be a cowboy!

Thanks mate - is 37.5mm enough in to the timber? I've got paranoid that more is necessary.... Makes me wonder when fixing this overboarding to ceilings is going to become too much for the fixings?

Chaps - just thought i'd gauge some opinion. I have to overboard a ceiling with 80mm PIR and then 12.5mm board. What size screws would you be happy with?

I concur with Noseall.

You have to look at it like this.... £845+ VAT is £125p/h - if they over run, your budget is going to alter dramatically - at least you know where you stand with your £2.8k fixed price As for doing all the drainage etc yourself, I think you will find it a bit of a challenge unless you've...

Need more info before being able to offer info on price, but your sub floor makeup is likely to be something like 75 screed 125 insulation 100 concrete 150 stone Doing it your way would mean you would have to either shutter the top 250 of foundations or get in to dig the oversight out...

I don't know what a cheddar horn is, but nonetheless I'm inclined to agree. Should aim for 450 min

It doesn't have to be 1/40 for 'grey' water - it can be half of this. However, it sort of sounds like the pipework you have starts flatter than this again, before running away at a sensible fall, giving almost an effect of a trap! How long ago was the work done, and how much of an area is the...

I concur with Taz - its worth noting what he paid for an average skip he could have probably got a grab lorry to have removed the lot for less money! But nonetheless, he needs to remove the rest - i'd never expect customers to top up waste disposal costs.

Mate - without seeing the job its impossible to say, the question that springs to mind is why has only ! in 6 tradesmen actually offered you a price, and sequentially, why is that price way above your expectations? There has to be a common denominator....

I'm in agreement with your retired mate, if i'm subbing I would always stick my neck out to do the damp-course blockwork as well, that way we know the building is set out correctly. If I don't know the ground-worker i'd also do a walk around the foundations with the laser level before laying...

Although we project manage a lot of our own builds we still occasionally put up the odd shell for developers and surveyors we have done work for in the past. As bricklayers by trade, I would always price to bed the wall plate on and strap it down - with it nice and level the Chippys have got an...