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Planning exactly the same system myself, it's usually referred to as an S-Plan Plus system, ie HW and two heating zones. I'm planning to use a new Honeywell wireless room stat for the house heating, and a 'standard' 2 channel programmer for the HW and garage heating. This system will use 3 two...

If I was doing the job, I'd tightly clamp a piece of scrap MDF on to the face and drill through the two with a sharp forstner bit, flat bit or hole saw. If you also clamp a piece on the rear as well, and drill all three, you will get a nice finish on the back side too.

Never come across these myself, was planning to Porta-nail my T&G oak flooring. How are they actually used, screwed through the top face, or through the tongue in the normal 'secret nailing' position / angle? Don't really see what advantage they give once the flooring is down.

Seeing as Shytalkz is a Structural Engineer, I think he probably knows a little more about structural issues than your average building inspector... :wink:

When you say you're doing it "legally", I assume you mean to the relavent building regulations, which in this case is covered by Part L1b. If you notify this work to your local authority, the required amount of insulation will be dictated by the total U value of the combined surfaces, i.e...

Thanks Muggles. Current HW cyl is 117lt, but have been thinking it would be wise to replace it with something like a 140lt cyl.

Will soon be moving my HW cylinder so want to install a shower pump while I'm at it to serve both a new mixer shower, and an en-suite mixer shower in a soon to be built loft conversion. HW cylinder is in the kitchen (bungalow), CW tank is 200lt 'coffin' type mounted high in the roof space, CH...

For that reason, I have decided to ditch my original ST6400C all together, and install a cheap single channel ST6100C or similar programmer for the HW. Much tidier solution I think, as well as being 'idiot proof' :) D_Hailsham - I assume the best way to wire all this lot together is to use...

Thanks for the reply. Just out of interest, assuming I've understood correctly, why would you chose to install an S-plan system using two 2-port valves, when a Y-plan system uses just one 3-port valve?

Doh.... note to self, use the search function next time.... :wink: Just found the answer to my question in a very useful thread replied to by 'D_Hailsham'. Do have one further question though, if I do install a CM927 and use it in conjunction with my current ST6400C to control the hot...

Currently have a Honeywell ST6400C 7 day programmer controlling CH and hot water (oil fired boiler). Rads have TRVs but there’s no room stat. As I refurbish and extend the house, I really fancy installing a CM927 wireless controller, but in all the spec info I have read on this unit, there is...

Thankfully Facom is one of the few companies left that do not appear to have sold out to China. Their tools are very high quality and probably on par with Snap-On.

Just had a room plastered, but before I emulsion I want to fill a few areas that are less than perfect, mainly around sockets / switches as I have the flat plat / screwless type. What's the best product to use for this job? Have used the usual Polyfilla in the past, but always thought it was a...

Buy a 'Charles', if you don't agree with me that it's the best vacuum you have ever owned I will pay for it!! Charles is the wet & dry vacuum made my Numatic who manufacture the Henry, and can be had for about £110 on t'interweb. The suction this thing has is just bonkers! Yesterday I...

I have a Meile 'house' pull around vacuum and a Charles (wet & dry version of Henry) garage / building vac. Both are superb, especially the Charles - it will suck up just about everything! But, and I have a cat, if you have carpets, I would rcommend getting an upright (but not a Dyson!). You...

Been doing quite a bit of this recently, and having not attempted it before I can tell you it is unbelievably frustrating! The break through for me was buying a mortar gun (for re-pointing my house in the future), this tool makes this job an absolute doddle. They are about £20 from Screwfix.

Once all prep is done, I've always started painting workwork first, then emulsion last, as emulsion is easier to get off gloss paint than vice versa.

They were a new thing to me recently, and explained to me by my structural engineer as a means of joining the new rafters (cut roof) of my extension to the existing rafters where they form the valley. As I understand it, the lay board is a piece of timber typically 38mm x 220mm 'ish, nailed...

Just looked at your pics, difficult to tell the layout of the building, but as already mentioned you don't appear to have any lateral restraint of the walls / roof rafters. I would expect the ceiling joists to do this by running 90deg to the direction they are currently in and fixed to the...

Cheaper but same model as above:- http://www.screwfix.com/prods/88230/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hottest-MAPP/Trigger-Start-Flame-Control-Torch-TS7000T