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I've just finished curing the exact same problem in a 4.5m x 3m room. Original 3" x 1 ½" ceiling joists (bungalow) were bowed, as was the 4" x 2" binder, and it sloped. Once the ceiling had come down, I pushed everything back up flat with acros. The binder was strengthened with a 150mm x 47mm...

About to purchase solid oak flooring for 3m x 4.5m lounge / dining room. As my budget is tight, have been looking at products around the £20 - £25 sq m mark. With this in mind, would I better to go for a narrow board, e.g. 90mm rather than wider to reduce the chance of curling? (I will be...

I can also highly recommend:- http://stores.ebay.co.uk/TOOLCHESTDIRECT-LTD or www.toolchestdirect.com if you think Ebay is the work of the devil :wink: Recently purchased a Makita compound sliding mitre saw and Makita 18V LXT cordless drill from them.

Anyone have any first hand experience with www.u-fit.co.uk, good or bad? Have some windows to replace (notified as part of full plans buildings regs application for my house extension) and they do appear to tick all the boxes for features I want, inc 28mm Pilkington K glazed units. Just...

I was hoping someone would say that... :wink: I've been putting it off for that reason! Yes, in fact original screed was higher than DPC, have laid new floor level lower as final floor finish will be 25mm battens + 18mm oak.

Just laid a new concrete floor in a lounge, with the finish level being 10 - 20mm below existing DPC. I assume I should really chase a narrow groove out below the existing DPC and insert the edge of the DPM into it... how deep should this groove be, and what adhesive should I use to seal / hold...

The reason for the 25mm insulation upstand is to stop thermal bridging between the inner skin of the walls and the slab / screed. So I would have said that the screed should also finish flush with the top of the insulation.

4.6 and 6.8 would be regarded as 'standard' grade, whereas 8.8 and above as 'high tensile'. All bolts regardless of grade can be obtained just black or zinc plated. I would suggest 8.8 grade as a minimum for structural steelwork.

Agree with Shy, always been anti stud walls, but I'm about to build a new kitchen / dining room partition wall which will hide a structural steel beam to support a roof purlin. As the wall will have double doors, there is actually only about 800mm either side, so I wasn't too worried. I will...

No minimum height, except over a staircase (2000mm), though 2400mm is generally regarded as a nominal height.

Best to check with your local BC. Mine (Norfolk) don't allow it, but do allow Thinsulex Silver + Celotex.

Have always bought top quality branded powertools, but for an SDS drill I've had a £20 cheap'ass special for a few years now and it's been fine. Don't use it to make a living though. Just about to buy a bigger one, and will probably get this:-...

I am about to do exactly the same job! It's totally up to you what size you use, but most people use a narrower door when used in pairs. However I am planning to use two standard width internal doors (765mm) which will be half glazed.

Yeah, cheers.... :wink:

Just been through a similar issue on an extension that has just been approved by BC. Integral garage had garage door opening adjacent to 9m long wall. Minimum INTERNAL return to opening had to be 550mm, otherwise would have had to build in a structural 'wind post' in the corner. See page 25...

Like everything, you get wht you pay for.... For vices, as well as G and sash clamps, Record everytime.

About to use these products to repair some cracks in some external masonry, although I've not used them before, the process looks very straight forward. I've got a 4.5lt tub of the 'special Helifix grout', cost about £50 + vat, but a bit surprised it looks to me like a bag of OPC and a sachet...

Why not simply go for cavity insulation?

Thanks, thought you might say that... :wink:

One other thing, was planning to use the broken up slab and screed as the hardcore to put back in, do you see a problem with this?