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Actually Carlite Bonding is heat resistant due to the materials it is made of. I suppose it depends on the temps that we are talking about. Alex

Brilliant picture that mate. Whats the detail of slate and quarry? Look at the size of the undereaves :lol: Alex

You could take 8x4 25mm Kingspan and stick it to underside of roof with Sikaflex. Prop a few sticks underneath a sheet overnight until set ........it wont come off but it will be £OUCH!! Alex

It`s probably a softer sand. Try a few samples. Maybe a white type sand with a pine float and a sponge finish. Sand/cement renders are not usually left off a steel trowel as they have a tendency to crack......especially if curing quick in hot dry conditions. Alex

Yeah it must be a softish block. I thought you were just using Thermalite as a genereic term as some people use the word "breezeblock" As we tradesman all know you use a render in proportion to block strength ...

Without knowing the newton value of block you wont go far wrong with 4 sand and 1 cement for both coats. I would add waterproofer to first coat which should be 10mm thick.Second coat 8mm. Give first coat a good scratch while wall is still soft enough. Don`t tear hell out of it but a good deep...

Treat the sides the same as the top...ie under the tiles. Aim for 75mm of cover and 50mm minimum. The edges of sides and top should have a turn up to form a dam effect. The sides are cut tile as required. you can use a cheap grinder with a stone blade. I usually back the slatepiece...

Yes guys .The heavy jumper wrapped around the shoulder to ease the aches.You did best in the morning cos by midday you were goosed. Before that the slates were carried on the head on a board :lol: Some of the early tile loading machines were temperamental and somewhat primitive.I remember...

Yes Yorkshire .........remember the Stonewold/Delta.We called it Plain and Purl :lol: Delta had to be bang on or you could throw the ridges in the bin :lol: . You probably remember when you were toiling on roof and two lorrys would come on site with 4 thousand Stonewold. You had to come off roof...

Well you have my sympathy...that is a sorry shame. Mind you it wont leak but looks so bad. We don`t really use those materials here much for serious housing. Alex

You can still get the fibreglass secret valley. You will get a shock at the price of lead now :lol: . As Noseall says 50mm overhang on verge. It aint Asbestos now but a fibre cement board which IMO is not quite as tough. Don`t know about Yorkshire but up here in West of Scotland verge clips are...

Lets face it Craig ..........repointing old ridges is never going to be a first class A1 job. It is a compromise. You can`t always get the key you would like as some of the original is hard and wont come out. At the same time you know that if you start taking the ridges off it is going to be...

Yep...........Woodys right. With Everest you are paying for a surveyor a salesman the application team the gaurantee then the profit. It`s an expensive chain. Don`t know what Everest would want but £100 sq. metre is a rough price for contractors........ athough polyester (grp)has gone up a bit...

Why thank you kind sir :lol: I am just thrilled to hear of guys who like me still know and use an Aris Stick :lol: I don`t think there is anything worse looking than that horrible tell tale line of a plastic bead on a Roughcast Corner. Thing is .........all these external beads came in...

Well without knowing what he has used I would think that if it was Bitumen paint it would have dried within 48hrs. Synthaprufe is a high quality one part Epoxy material. He may have used a similar quality stuff and that is why it is taking so long to go off. I`m only guessing mind but...

Why not plaster over it? Alex

Yeah mix your additives in a bucket with hose pressure. Add this liquid to mixer....then half the sand ....all the cement ......and rest of sand. Always remember...you can put more water in but you can`t take it out :lol: The practice of mixing sand and cement together and then adding...

Job should be able to be done with an Aris stick used inside and outside Ingoe or Jamb when mortar is still permeable. Doing it that way is a job for an old fashioned Roughcaster though. You are basically putting a timber batten(aris stick) on the ouside wall to form the ingoe and then the stick...

Lawrence houses of that era have drydash with Durite or similar. As Roughcaster says you can`t put the power on it as you will remove chips. Do a very small test sample. If it is mossy or algae type dirt try a Fungicide. If road dirt try washing Soda or similar. Spray on and spray off only...

Lots of good points and advice. Funny thing is I would advise you not to do what I would have done many years ago myself :lol: You must suit yourself. As for losing work ..you can`t lose what you didn`t have in the first place :lol: Yes you can think of the money or you can think of the...