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Fair enough. Normally they're just a snug fit but if one keeps coming loose you could try a solvent weld product to bond the joint. Ideally you could test it on a couple of scraps of the same plastic to make sure it will work but it should be ok on most kinds of rainwater product. There are a...

Do you mean the downpipe keeps slipping down? If that's the problem then the clamps holding it to the wall aren't doing their job, either they're slack or there aren't enough of them. The joints shouldn't be taking any load and you're right to avoid putting screws in them.

Only mentioned tape because if there is none you can get access to the top surface of the membrane to see if it's getting wet, if joints are taped you can't do that. From your description - not wet before and coming through where the nails pass through the membrane - it does sound as though the...

As others have said this shouldn't happen, the membrane should stay dry if the roof is working. If the membrane joints haven't been taped you can check for water from inside by sliding a length of stiff paper or card into the join and seeing if it is wet. If the paper gets wet during or after...

Not a good situation to have at this time of year, doesn't sound like you have much choice but to get right in there and fix it. Just one suggestion to throw in - if you strip the slates it makes sense to put a permeable membrane in anyway and one benefit is that the membrane is durable enough...

That was quick work, I hope you get a good result. I don't know how much roof experience you have but it's worth doing the research to get the best outcome, the principles are well within competent DIY but there are plenty of opportunities to get things wrong. If the existing roof is ok other...

There are a few guides to be found on the web, this for example.. http://www.sigaslate.co.uk/fixing-recommendations.html The fixings will depend on the slate thickness, exposure and what you're nailing into but British Standard for copper is at least 10mm head and 3mm shank. Typically the...

If your roof works, nothing under the tiles will get wet, as you've suggested the main battens just need to be lifted enough that air can flow beneath them so any moisture rising from below can evaporate meaning you don't get trapped condensation. Catlad's solution is the easiest way to get a...

No disrespect either but I don't need to offer evidence that something 'may' be true. If the OP can satisfy the LABC that the installation is adequate then he has a solution to being let down by a malicious installer. If he can't then he has to find another way. The regulations weren't intended...

That's what LABC's require, if they're happy I would be too.

This site is awash with posts ranging from polite enquiries to full-on flame wars on this subject, this one including the HSE view for example.. http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=186230&start=0 For this thread all that matters is what the OP's LABC thinks so let's not hijack it...

This is a mess but there has to be a way forward. In the first instance I'd level with your LABC and see if they'll accept you signing off on the work yourself. You seem to have a good understanding of the technicalities and depending on their interpretation of 'competent person' they may accept...

Whoever did that was a few tiles short of a roof in more ways than one. In your first post you said you haven't seen any water damage, that could be because the membrane is taking away water that will be getting through the tiles. It's not supposed to work like that and as others have said it...

Interesting building, replacing lead gutter is a specialist job so do plenty of research and be sure of what you want done before scoping the job with a contractor. There's a bit of information about lead gutters in this article for example...

s60tsy is right that failed pointing and/or broken tiles are the main cause of roof leaks - if yours look ok the moss may be causing the problem. Is the moss thick enough to stop water running freely to the gutter? if so you may only need to clean it off and empty the gutters to fix the roof...

Difficult access could add a fair bit to the cost but the thing I'd be concerned about is whether fitting eaves trays will cure the problem. If the roof is working properly there shouldn't be leaks into a bedroom even if there's no felt at all. The felt is to reduce air flow and to catch minor...

More detail of the job is needed but that sounds like a lot. 'Eaves protection' is usually just a formed plastic strip that slides under the eaves tiles to guide water into the gutter, as a retrofit they're useful where roofing felt has deteriorated. Screwfix sell these for example...

The key issue for slates laid to BS is to get the headlap and sidelap large enough for the pitch and exposure. 20 degrees is very shallow for a slate roof but BS allows 500x300 to be used with a 115mm headlap in moderate exposure, so that's a reasonable aim. If you are in a moderate exposure...

Thanks for the suggestion catlad, I hadn't thought of hooks and didn't know much about them before. I like the idea of securing slates without holes and see the NFRC and NHBC both approve the use of hooks if they meet certain specs. Definitely one to think about, thanks again.

That's a good point but a lot of 'imported' kit is bought direct from China or the US so technically it's the responsibility of the purchaser to CE mark it. Most of these grey imports have a CE mark somewhere but usually it's just for show - there's no way they'd pass EU regulations.