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Yep dead as a dodo. Strangely since switching to "P" the valve has returned to the heating only position. I'm thinking the programmer wall plate has been wired in wrong and that getting a newer programmer won't solve the issue?

It could be moved, but had resistence and would return back to its original position.

I thought as much. I changed the switch to "P" the advance water/heat red light switches come and off as they should, but it's as if there's no communication with the boiler as it doesn't fire up in "P" mode.

I've taken the programmer off the wall. Should that switch be in the "G" position?

Would that stop the the motorised valve switching position - is there anyway that can be manually moved?

6 radiators Heating was on for 45 minutes. I tried hot water alone and it stays in the same position. Also tried turning the hot water off when I've turned CH on, but the light remains whatever I press.

I've been used to using combi boilers with instant hot water previously. This house has the set up as shown in the photos + 2 tanks in the loft. I pressed the "heating advance" button assuming this would turn on the CH. However the pipes leading in to the cylinder were getting warm also, it...

It was from dunelm. Here's the link https://www.dunelm.com/product/twain-outdoor-globe-glass-wall-light-1000189425

Surprisingly nothing on the paperwork supplied relating to dealing to the wall. All it mentions is about wrapping insulation tape twice around the cable connectors. Is it good practice to leave without any seal or gasket?

Looking for a recommendation on a sealant please. I've just replaced an old outside light. The new one didn't come with any gasket! What's the best sealant for a metal outside light on brick. Can acetoxy cure be used or will it react with the brick or metal?

It goes straight straight through the ceiling, into the attic, then through the roof. I haven't measured it, but I'd say no more than a metre?

Could anyone point me in the right direction to a suitable replacement for the silavent EXT301 extractor fan please? Originally it wasn't working, only humming until I removed the cover and cleaned off all the caked on dust. However the performance doesn't seem great and was looking to replace...

Just noticed a vertical crack below the door too.

With the is crack being horizontal at the DPC, should this be sealed with mastic also?

Thanks. Does this look like it'll do the trick? https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-builders-silicone-clear-310ml/83710

Would this be suitable for the exterior? https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-repair-express/p72284?store=L2&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=558033462390&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy_zUt4vy-QIVAtTtCh1xdQSjEAQYASABEgLP1vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Have read somewhere that it's not advisible to seal gaps in case the crack was a result of the hot weather drying the ground out. The gap could close up once we've had a good amount of rain and do more damage? As you say, part of me feels it should be sealed up as water ingress could present...

I checked a video I had recorded of the house prior to completion and there isn't any obvious sign of the interior crack. I can't say for 100% there wasn't cracks, if there was, they'd have not yet visible to the naked eye from distance. House is mid 90s and I believe conservatory is about 15...

No idea to be honest. How would I go about finding that out?

What would the repercussions be if its classed as subsidence? Sky high insurance going forward?