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Saying that if the sidelight is slightly out of level , again the joiner won't be level as one edge of the sidelight frame could be protruding the top of the frames ...so again the joiner won't sit level

So sounds like the toplight only . Os the joiner u der the top frame level ? My suspicion is that when the joiner has been put on the fitter hasn't made use the welds are smooth on the top of the frame and the joiner isn't quite sitting level ... thus the toplight isn't level....but it's only a...

What we are trying to determine is if the whole setup is off level or just that toplight

OK so the frame itself looks like it has been manufactured correctly. Are the doors and panels below the toplight level? Or are they both running the same way as the toplight?

OK so it's definetly not sat square right now. Can you measure the visible size of the glass on the left and right and top and bottom please? Trying to work out of the frames out of square through fitting OR manufacture. You could also check if the frame is level at top and bottom of the...

If with a level you can prove it's unlevel , then the fitter has no argument against it and should straighten it up , my concern is as that is above a door... is the doorway out of square too. Unfortunately you have to ignore the canopy and whether it's level or not ... just concentrate on the...

OK perfect , no cracked frame or welds... As goes the install , it's already been determined that the canopy does indeed slope so it's always going to look a little strange. As others have said, using a level is the top light level on the horizontal? If it is then there is nothing that can be...

Have they fitted NEW frames? Or just refitted the old ones ?

Any reputable person should warn customers ... we always warn about how much colours move in the sun ... And if it's under 10years old ... I'd be expecting my supplier to replace it!

Wasn't sure if they just took it out and refitted it or supplied new frames....hope it was new frames

White upvc can still bow too..seen it a few times. But rosewood, golden oak, anthracite grey and black ash are awful

Regardless of the levels I really hope they are going to address the cracked frame smeared in white silicone and what looks like two cracked welds on the Anthracite grey. I appreciate that the wall surface is a little.rough bit the silicone in those pictures is awful.... I'd be embarrassed

That'll literally be the smell from within the sealed unit. Never quite pinned down what causes the smell but smelt it a few times when splitting down failed decorative units for repair

I'm with Crank on this... Pretty much guarantee its Nickel Sulphide Inclusion, much more common than people will admit. I've even had pieces go in my hands in our workshops before, most disconcerting!. As for the polycarbonate panel , you could but it would look awful

Last few we've fitted claim the batteries only lasted 6 months lol...good to hear some are lasting a lot longer

Just a note about microchip catflaps... they tend to go through batteries much faster than you'd like to hope

It is probably 27.5mm ... 20mm spacer bar isn't actually 20mm , bizarrely it's 19.5mm... so yes you'll need a 28mm panel

No way of repairing the buttons to my knowledge. It's effectively just a plastic clip ( some are metal ) , and honestly , really not uncommon foe them to go wrong

All fantastic advice as usual by Crank39! Topman

Not sure whats in veluxs specs now but im sure its a minimum of 4mm toughened... I'm sure they use 4mm tough,/6.4 lami now, never used to , used to always just be Std 4mm window glass which is ludicrous. The sizes of most velux certainly wouldn't need 6mm or 8.8 lami . I do suspect 8.8 lami...