Search results

Prise off the white cap on the end and you should see an Allen key hole. Will be one on all three hinges, they will.adjust the door laterally. Under the hinge on the frame is another Allen key which will adjust the height. Mark where the door is sitting with a pencil.in a few places before...

Take a pic of the hinges and post it up

If its not throwing the deadbolt far enough when thw door is open something is jamming it.. you say you put a new gearbox on it? Then I'd be looking at all the other keeps, all it takes is one to jam , or the linking bar to be slightly bent and it won' t be able to throw the deadbolt . Some...

With the door open try and operate and lock the door . If it locks then its an alignment issue

They say they have used ecopane, basically low e glass, the amount of themal insulation you will gain from.a unit that thick , in old sliding sash windows is negligible to be honest. Low e glasses work optimally at 12mm cavity and above

Oh absolutely agree its a botch, I would never have recommended putting dgus in there in the first place. At a push you could.have used ' stepped ' units but would.look awful unless you beaded the inside but that would make the glass area smaller

Seems like poor advice and poor fitting to me. There are ' Heritage 'units on the market which allow for smaller distances between the edge of the glass and inside face of the spacer bar , normally about 8mm instead of 10-12mm, but if using thin 12mm thick sealed units ( 4mm spacer bar ) ...

Various types here https://ebay.us/m/pqnE99

Were these new sashes? Were they double glazed before? If the answer to both of those is no , then it's unlikely you will get a better fit. Reason being is that the rebate for single glazing is much less than the rebate for double glazing, hence you are seeing the side of the spacer bar. The...

Completely agree Notch, modern wooden glazing is glazed dry.. from the pictures this does not look like modern wooden frames though

Hopefully OP can still angle the screws. Use 7.5mm concrete screws with a t30 torx head, drill a 6mm pilot hole in the frame and masonry ( can't stress enough you very well may need to angle the screws.) Use 120mm or 150mm, at the angle they should reach a wall

Never come across one with pre drilled holes yet! And beware with expansion anchors if close to edge of block work as you can destroy the block

My first thought was it's fixed with cleats, but not 100% after seeing the plaster/paint on the wall. It is still possible though. The way they work is it's a metal strap that clips/screws to the Upvc door ( it's a upvc door , not a Composite Door ), then that strap is fixed to the block work...

Absolutely!

Unless the bottom bead has packers and allow drainage then the recognised way of fitting the glass would.have been to fill the void around the sealed unit with a clear Low Modulus Neural cure silicone, thus not allowing any water to get to the seal of the unit, this would protect the sealed...

There are several potential causes for this. someone skimped on the sealant when the windows were glazed Beads not 'capped 'once glazed Rebates werent treated before glazing maintenance ( eg painting and staining )on the windows/doors wasn't kept up Putty dries out and cracks , letting water...

With the door open try and operate the door locking mechanism. If it works fine then it's an issue with door alignment. If not then you have an issue with either the door gearbox, or the cylinder barrel. Depending on how good you are with diy depends on whether you need someone who...

Looks like the original was fitted with a double sided security tape , the replacement looks very much like white silicone but possibly CT1 Unless the 'silicone/ct1 ' comes into contact with the sealed units black butyl sealant then it will do no harm to the unit and just looks really messy

That would work , and as you say, less locking points. Have to say it's normally the gearbox at fault ( and the bottom shootout drops...unusual for top ) , and gearboxes aren't too bad price wise. But if your happy with the lack of locking points ( potentially two depending on size as the...

Well you can already see in your second picture that the screw is going no where, there's your issue. Suggest longer screws, angled to attach the actual building, ideally fixing foam too but you're not going to get that in. Good news about being able to lift it though and no visible damage to...