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Normally they are held on by screws that go through the handle backplate on the inside and screw into the back of the backplate on the outside handle (.so you cant access them from outside ) . Have you tried prising out the blanking plate above the key? Also looks like one at the bottom, those...

Seeing the overall set up, think the only option is have the window frame removed, which include the yellow section below the glass section,and hope it's just a failed timber and nothing more setious

Obviously I cant see the whole property but pictures.2 and 3 show the line of silicone and where the cill now sits, and yes its about 4 inches ... but before you look at subsidence , that cill.is joined to the window, so it may , hopefully , still.just be a case of the window dropping . If its...

Can you physically push the window frame back up to close that gap?, if so you may get away with ' packing ' it underneath but that will depend on the construction of the house. If you can push it up , and pack it, then get some frame fixers ( concrete screws ) that use a t30 torx bit and screw...

If it had been mechanically fitted ( eg screwed, ) to the walls then it shouldn't have dropped at all , open the window and see if there are any screws going into the walls. It may still be on ' straps " in which case it's mechanically fitted too.. see if the frame is physically loose

Sounds pretty normal to me

You could probably foam the bigger gaps ( dont use a standard tin , buy a gun applicator and a gun tin ... more control on smaller places ), then when you wallpapered up to the window, run a bead of caulk round the window sealing all the gaps

Im afraid those particular type aren't. You could try removing the.glass and toe and heeling the doors, plenty of videos on you tube explaining it

Could visit local tip too... sometimes they have old windows people have taken out themselves

That sounds more like adjustment... if you have the door open and operate the handle.to lock it , is it still stiff? If not the door lock is out of alignment with the keeps. Could be that the door has dropped slightly or bowed or even just expanded in the heat if its only just started to happen

Agree with Crank39 .. satin ( or satinova) is probably the best whatever you do , DO NOT use solar reflective or mirrored film...when it's dark outside and you put that light on your bathroom is suddenly very visible!

If there is enough rebate you can put a sealed unit in there, of its currently putty , factor in putting new beading in too , as sealed units deteriorate quicker with putty and a lot of manufactures won't warranty sealed units in putty. Making them sealed units would mean it is unlikely to be...

You are absolutely correct, it is not a myth. It's to do with the simple fact that if the door is only closed on the centre latch , the top and bottom of the door can be moved , dark coloured pvc in particular suffers thermal movement, engaging the full lock by pulling the handle up secures...

Sounds to me like lack of maintenance and poorly adjusted ' friction ' at those showrooms that didn't work smoothly Most hinges are of similiar quality in my opinion

As commented there is no ' standard size ' . What you are seeing online is someone choosing arbitrary sizes and bulk buying/manufacturing them. You will more than likely pay more for the ' polished edge ' than the cost of the ' base glass ' unfortunately the way it is. Some customers do forego...

If the right pressure has been applied, and the secondary sealant , then there should be no bow at manufacture...poor sealing technique if there is

Is it a green tint in the glass you are seeing on your neighbours or the reflection from the metallic coatings used to produce Low e glass ?.... I very much suspect the latter .

It certainly won't get any better! I'd normally say too much dessicant in it if it's aluminium bar , if it's black ' swiggle strip ' I'd say age , temperature and thermal movement

Lol

If you are that annoyed by putty bubbling ... ditch the putty , use wooden beads