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But won't be a sealed unit and have any thermal properties. There has always been this argument regarding this. Once there are holes allowing circulation of air , then the unit is no longer sealed and it's thermal properties are not much better than single glazing

Will all depend if the dessicant in the spacer bar has 'died ' ... which is usually the reason the units mist...yes it might buy you a week or so but wouldn't expect much more

This are normally incredibly stiff to move by hand , once fitted much easier

Why does it need to to be Tempered ? I see no indication anywhere that it is required to be toughened glass It won't ' craze ' as it clearly isn't toughened glass. That unit will potentially be broken down due to the cracked corner but more than likely age looking at the frame ( they only have...

I was thinking this too, a structural engineer indeed lol. Having read the entire thread through and not commented until this point personally I'd use a multitool to careful removing , existing putty , hopefully not breaking any glass. Then remove glass and clean all putty out ... then...

It varies either a butyl ' hotmelt ' ( which gets gunned in at about 195 deg c ) or a cold version. The cold version is easier to split apart admittedly and can normally be done with a sharp Stanley blade( being very careful not to cut yourself , as its quite easy for the knife to slip ). All...

No it wouldn't lol . Glass cutting is all about ' scoring ' the glass and then ' running/snapping/tapping ,' the glass out ..it's certainly not like you see in the movies where they score a circle and just pull it out....too much friction. Best bet is to ' split ' the unit apart into two...

Old broken down/misted sealed units are definitely easier than new sealed units that is true

It's not easy but yes you can

As for OP ... thats a fantastic result with your supplier

I understand where you are coming from but please don't encourage people to fit non toughened/safety glass in situations like this. It is downright dangerous and people will assume that it is safe to do so and despite you saying about a Balustrade ( and Crank reiterating both sides ) people...

Sounds like the top of the frame may be bowed down ... or maybe the bottom bowed up ( which maybe some of the issue)

Slimline sealed units generally are 4mm glass, 4mm spacer , 4mm glass, so 12mm overall but do seem to carry a surcharge and as a general rule don't actually seem to last as long . Normally double glazed sealed units will have spacer bar sizes from 6mm up to 20mm , going up at increments of 2...

Door could.still be composite, half glazed , and decorative glass made to match in door, sidelines and toplights if currently in all those areas. Even if you go down the line of a wooden frame and door , the decorative glass can still be made for it in double le glazing , as it can in upvc

Yes you should be able to get those replicated in a double glazed unit, we do those as part of our business but I'm not naming or advertising ( as this is against the site rules ), but just proving that yes they can be replicated. Without seeing the exact pattern I don't know if we could...

Oh hang on just seen the picture... toplights and side panels. . Actually 2800 isn't that far out the way BUT wood WILL be much more if it has to be custom made , which I very much suspect as I don't think even the big manufacturers of wood are unlikely to have that size or style as a stock item.

£2800 is a lot for a comp door, that really is top end and probably a bespoke colour with a slma lock. Is it a national that's quoted that , or a local company . I would say you could easily knock 1k of that price with a local company

If the locking works everytime with no clunks etc when the door is open, then it is an alignment issue. One of the cams or even the deadbolt are hitting the keeps on the door frame

Unfortunately no realistic solution other then replacement. Just for the record , and I know it's too late but the manufacturers of pvc and Composite recommend you always ' pull the handle ' up to engage all locking points every time you use the door, this reducing the chance of bowing as...

That's if it had restrictors on it lol. The crack changes it a little then lol. I've seen doors adjusted and last for a few years with cracks in , not sure if a upvc ' magic man ' could repair so close to the hinge and it last