Search results

The ends of the cill cap do ideally need sealing as that's a hollow.profile and potentially could let water in BUT all things considered that is unlikely. The bigger issue is the silicone... unless you have drain caps ( or holes ) on the face of the bottom.of the frame then water had no way to...

Just to add to Cranks reply , you may need a second ' scraper ' to act as a wedge when ypu get the first gap appearing. I've had some really tight beads lately for some reason. And just a quick note... apologies if i don't reply quickly , don't seem to be getting all my notifications coming...

Is the pz definetly 85? Centre of spindle to centre of the circular bit in the eurocylinder

I'd say that your water is getting in above the window.. maybe blocked gutters or roof tile missing, underfelt damaged? Water will always find the route of least resistance

Start in the middle of the longest bead

I would have hoped that the window would at least meet the external render. A knockon/addon would have solved that gap in an ideal world. Hopefully they have foamed that gap trimming over it

We use a very similiar tool to your picture tbh. You could also use a stiff paint scraper

Hard to tell from that pic ... but most ali has a ' wedge ' gasket that'll need removing so the glass can move and release the bead

It could be the end of the cill wasnt sealed correctly where it meets the wall by the cavity and water is blowing back in , through thr gap between bottom of frame and top of cill

It's second hand , the door itself could be slightly warped.... Also are those gaps there when you pull the handle up to engage the all the locking points?

The two rogue windows definetly look like Flush Sash casements but there does seem to be some gaps. Trickle vents are not actually mandatory anywhere BUT legally there has to be some form of background ventilation ( Trickle vents are the easiest and cheapest way of achieving this ) but it...

Yeah I'll second what Crank is saying , old Ali seemed to be an odd case... most Ali these days drains the same as pvc , either face drain or base drain. Best suggestion is Cranks , remove glass and see where the drainage goes lol

Unfortunately yes that's the correct way.. might take a bit of water before it leaks though

Sounds like it's be made for drainage. Do you know how long the windows have been in, as sounds and looks like concealed drainage, which drains out the bottom/underneath of the frame . As its sealed to the leadtray/cill there is no where for water to escape and I very much suspect it's going...

You'll get a 16mm unit from any reputable double glazing manufacturer. And glass size for a 606 should be 988 x 994. ( visible glass size ,.. 962 x 930 )..obviously check you are happy with the size as I'm not being held responsible if it's wrong lol.... make sure you get at least toughened...

They look like upvc windows on a lead tray/cill . Is that right? If so where's the drainage? Can't see any face drain caps/holes and gaps between bottom if window and cill is sealed so if frames are concealed/base drainage the water can't get out

Why would the way Crank is suggesting cause the door to sag over time?

Aluminium frames can be externally or internally beaded, depending on what you ordered. As Notch says, depends where your drainage is

The glass won't condensate in new double glazing, as its warmer ( exactly as it's designed to do ). Hence your neighbours aren't seeing it, But double glazing doesn't get rid of the water vapour, that's still in the air, so as I said the next coldest point in the house ( usually an external...

Ars you sure it's not a failing set of hinges causing you to see daylight on the hinge side?