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Sorry to say but looking at them pictures yes so all viable timbers will need removed back 1m past last signs to solid timber the wall all sprayed with treatment to kill the spores any leaks or damp batches need to be fixed if you stop the moisture getting to the fungus you will stop it but not...

It might have contributed to the mould starting the mould spores will be blown about causing the mould to start on other surfaces why not that the mould to kill it. Then as an experiment remove the plastic boxes and see if the mould returns having treated them or simply wrap insulation around...

It is something that seems to be seen more and more but that does not mean you should be seeing it. Do you need to store plastic boxes in the attic the mould needs to be treated a mould treatment to kill the bacteria following the manufacturer instructions. It can't be just hovered and wiped...

The vapour barrier is fitted to all external walls that have insulation it can be in the form of foiled back plasterboard or visqueen vapour barrier. It is not fitted to the ceilings. The combs in the Dormer rooms gets a vapour barrier. Insulation in a loft in scotland is to be 300mm 1st layer...

Adding ventilation to a roof increases heating and cooling costs, as the passing wind creates an area of low pressure to the lee and above the roof, as it tries to lift the roof off. This results in air being pulled from the roof (as you describe as ideal) which at the same time pulls our...

It needs to be looked at by a roofer the leak at the chimney might be a cracked flashing. The leak at the bottom could be from a missing or cracked slate. Also the gutters might be blocked. At the moment it might just be a simple fix if left might cost a lot of unnessary money.

The point is that moisture content is relative to air temperate and obviously when hot air touches a cold surface moisture forms Obviously the best way is ventilation

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A little bit unconventional but might help is to put a heater in the loft temporally and by doing so raise raise the moisture due point and remove the condensation from forming. On a cold day when we breath we all see the moisture from our breaths but on a hot day we can not see the moisture...

Looking at the pictures it does not look to be a supporting wall or a stiffening wall as you say there is nothing supported on it and at the ends I can see the buttresses meaning it's not being used to stiffen the outside walls. To be on the safe side why not give the original builder a phone...

I think you're on the right thinking of there being no ventilation in the attic causing the problem as the roof has no ventilation and with the new heating the warm air rises and so does the moisture and evaporates out through the vents. Which unfortunately are not present in your case and also...

Glad it's worked and happy new year

It does seem a bit too much to take off generally you can take off 6mm each side and at a pinch 9mm before you go through the lipping piece and into the frame piece which is generally 25mm presuming it's a hollow core door. If it's a pine door can take off the same before going through the lip...

Give them a coat of any microporous base coat then that way any moisture that is inside the timber is allowed to evaporate and not trapped which is the biggest problem. Then I would putty them and just leave till better weather to refurb they properly not going to get much worse and if they do...

Cheapest option is 18mm mdf some of the painted kitchen doors are mdf. Then as previous poster suggested use a router with a suitable cutter. You will need to make a jig for the copy ring to slide in the length of the grooves. Mark where the grooves go clamp the jig to line up with the lines and...

If the owner wants to put chipboard in the V they can it won't effects the roof structure as long as they don't cut any ties just nail some 3 x 2 across at the same level for the chipboard to sit on it wil be fine for light storage

Looks good if you're getting granite worktops is to ask how much the price would change if you did the templates and fitted yourself their just held on with like of no more nails

I've done a sketch for you showing the details of timber lintel details in timber kits hope it helps you to understand how it should look all timbers should be c24. The outside wall can have a concrete lintel or a steel lintel. Must be seated on at least 100mm either side. I build kits every day...