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thats the one rcd fcu 13 amp

You could use a combined FCU RCD less conections to do av from screwfix

To hook the string drill 25mm bottom hole insert folded tape measure and feed into the cavity , i find 5m metal tape works best. Then drop your string with weight attached from top hole, when it goes past the bottom hole retract the tape and hopefully the string, Good luck :D :D

Try replacing dimmer , i have had experience of faulty switch straight out of the box in the past

yes but do check to see if the brown is on it's own

the norm is to have one pair of tails going to the cu main switch then internal bridging to the r.c.d side in the cu off the load side of the main switch, so that the main switch isolates the whole cu

check through the wiring from the light to the sensor ,some times the internal wiring uses the red cable as a switch live from the sensor to the light ,in this case the brown will be on it's own and this is the cable you want to connect the live(red) from the house switch cable too,.

Check the rating of the fire ie, how many amps against any rating on the flex connector if the fire is higher do not use unless you want a fire

I have encounted this problem before , i found if you cut some timber such as 2inch by 1 inch battern about 8 to 9 inches long you can slide it into the gap you have cut out ,then screw though the plater board and t&g beside the hole holding onto the battern pulling it tight against the inside...

you don't always have to uprate the mcb, a 32amp mcb should take 1.5times its rated current for a period of time before tripping normally upto 4 hours ,most people only shower for 10 minutes or so,the mcb should provide over current protection for the cable,as well as short circuit protection...

You dont give the size of mcb you have protecting the shower at the moment?R.C.D. protection is a very good idea.

ceiling rose connect cables A&c together in connector marked n ,this should also have the blue cable from the lamp holder connected. Cable b should be connected to terminal marked l ,this should have a brown cable from the lamp holder connected to it, connect all earths in the brass terminal...

most dimmer switches tend to be 2way with 3 terminals marked C, L1,L2 . There are some on th market however that require a neutral connection if you have 1 of these i would sujest changing it . The connections would normaly be LIVE=C and Sw Live=L1 or L2 does not matter

can you give more info? ie.has system got an R.C.D,is there anything that causes the trip to go like turning on 1light ,has the trip got a button on the front that you push in to reset,or has it got a lever you push up to reset ,different types of m.c.bs.

Have you isolated the cable from the rest of the lighting circuit?

It varies depends on age of programer and on make, the older the programer the more chance of having to change the backplate as well

If it is rwb9 probably Landis&Staefa conections would be as follows CONECTIONS RWB9 TERMINALS FIRST, ST699B SECOND. L=L ,N=N ,1=7,2=4,3=6,4=3. _____________________________ Moderator edited to correct quote

Good idea to put seperate ring in for kitchen/utiliy as you have only 1 socket circuit for your abode at the moment, most power consuming appliances reside in the kitchen/uttility. Reguards the upstairs shower have the cable checked to see if it is suitable to take the 10.5kw shower, I expect...

do building control konw what they are doing yet with regaurds to part p

Who is to say it was not done before part P came into effect