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Yeah, I've tried pushing that red collar back - using my fingers and an adjustable spanner (to give it more "welly"). It moves back a bit, but the pipe will not move at all. I've read suggestions about pushing the pipe into the fitting before pulling it out, but I can't do that, either. It's...

Hello, I have a plinth heater (similar to this: https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/smith-s-space-saver-ss5-fan-convector---kitchen-plinth-heater/) in my kitchen, connected to my central heating water. It does not work, and I want to remove it to check if there's a blockage. The fan runs OK, but...

Thanks for the suggestion Hugh, but I needed a round cover. But, I went for the cheapskate option and used my belt sander to sand flat the bits of molten plastic on the cover so at least it's now not lumpy. And it's plenty strong enough for foot traffic (which is all it will ever get).

Hello, I was hoping someone would have a recommendation where I could buy a plastic, 300mm diameter Osma (or compatible) 3-screw round inspection cover (some idiot managed to MELT one in my garden and I need to replace it). But I've found plenty of larger ones, or places selling the whole...

Yep - long-nose pliers applied to that secret location meant the connectors came off easily. Is this something that is only taught in hushed tones in Electrician School and kept secret from Joe Public?! It was a badly fitted connector that resulted in the death of the first selector switch and...

Huh! Well, I discovered the solution: in my frustration, I ripped off the insulation around that red connector, and discovered a tiny lug thing that, when pushed, releases the clip thing that holds the connector in place! I never knew that existed. Problem solved (hopefully!).

Hello. I am in the process of replacing some of the wiring in my Samsung BF3ON3T11 oven. I thought it'd be very straightforward - note where everything goes, unplug each old connector and plug in each new one. But I've failed at the second hurdle. I unplugged the first crimp connector OK, but...

Well, I just went ahead and connected L1 and the mystery blue wire to my light fitting and...nothing. After I'd connected it, there was about 240V between the blue wire and earth, but 0 volts between the blue wire and L1, so I'm guessing that both L1 and the blue wire are both live and neither...

One more question: Would the potential difference between a neutral (what I'm hoping the mystery blue wire is) and earth be zero volts? Shouldn't there be some voltage there? Because it IS zero. There is no continuity between the blue wire and the earth wires.

Just to give the 'connect into the existing lighting circuit' one last try (it would save me going out to buy an FCU and would just be neater), here are some photos of what's what: This is the Other End (in the house) of the 2-way switch. It's a double switch, with two 2-way lights, hence the...

From a bit of research on feeding a light from a spur, I found this: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/lighting-spur-from-a-ring-main-socket.113061/ ...so if I added a 5 amp fused connector unit between a spur from the sockets and my lightswitch, I should be good to go?

Thank you, everyone for your super fast and very helpful replies! No, the blue wire was just coiled up in there. It comes from the same cable as one of the two-way switch cables. I stripped some insulation off the end so I could test it. My meter is a modern one with an LCD digital display...

Hello, This is my current setup: I have some exterior lights in my garden, which can be operated by a switch in the house or the garage. I want to add a light inside the garage, just a normal, one light, one way thing. Is there any way I can take a kind of spur from the existing two-way switch...

I saw Kapton tape earlier, but my 1 minute search only yielded results from China, and I was distracted by the glass fibre sleeving and wandered off on that route. But, having spend another 30 seconds searching eBay, have found some Kapton tape for cheap in Nottingham, which I have now bought...

Thanks for that suggestion. I found some other heat resistant sleeving online (searches for heat resistant tape didn't bring up as many useful results as heat resistant sleeve), such as this one...

Hello, I need to replace the function selector switch for my Samsung oven. Where it's failed, it has also charred some of the insulation off one of the wires connected to it. So I'd like to insulate that section of cable. I have plenty of 'bog standard' insulating tape, but am worried that the...

It appears to be 6mm². Hmmm, yes - good point about finding a big enough box.

So assuming that I can and will run the cable through the coving, I could presumably also include a maintenance-free junction box in there, to reduce the 30amp cable to something more suitable. So the plan would be: Remove the bit of 30amp cable running down the wall, so there's just enough...

I'm sure whoever previously did any kind of wiring in my house had not even read 1.1.1 of the regs! Not long after we moved in, I noticed the head of one of the screws holding a brass lightswitch was a bit mashed, and I'd occasionally catch my hand on the pointy bits of metal. It wasn't until...

I'll add an RCD to the consumer unit. The current lighting circuit is nowhere near this proposed light/switch, hence wanting to use what's already right there. I've read on this forum that running cables behind coving is technically OK, but frowned upon by many people. But it's not like...