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Hi, Basically I've turned the chamber around so im using the 145 and 235 inputs. I need to dig the trench a little deeper under the pipe so waiting for a 1/2 bag of 10mm clean to arrive. Nothing is set in stone yet. Or concrete. If i need to use the i45 and then a 90 bend connector I will...

Well yes I was hoping this would be ok. The channels arent that deep in the chamber and the water flows fine. The three inputs are at 135, 180, 225 deg. Not only would it take me away from the p-trap i would have to use a 90 bend. I thought 45's were easier to rod. I suppose i could use 2 x...

Went with the 4D960 and 4D961, with a Screwfix P-Trap and Hopper. I need to dig out under the pipe a bit more and then fill with 10mm to support. Is there a preferred way of concreting/slabbing over the pipe? sand, plastic covering, or just put concrete/muck and slab straight on top? Thanks

@Hugh Jaleak , Found this previous answer from you on another thread "If you need to connect below ground, you'll have to join to that and come up to ground level in 110mm pipework. Then either make a direct connection to the drain with a suitable boss adaptor, or fit a gully." So I'm guessing...

Hi Hugh Thanks for the reply. Yeah i saw the left handed one you mention in Travis Perkins. They didn't have a lid in stock to see how far in the chamber the lid went. So i couldn't determine the height of the lid (4D969) above the inlet. I dont have a P-trap yet. I was going to get this...

Hi I have a 110mm pipe coming out from my half done extension that is only 8cm under the level of the intended patio (from the top of the pipe). The 110mm will carry kitchen sink and dishwasher waste via a standard 40mm waste pipe through a hole under the window. I was going to fit this...

I think I'm ok with the 110mm positioned 40mm in the wall about 600mm off the right hand wall, so the TD can share the 40mm. If its not deep enough I can always add a sheet of plasterboard or some more render and plaster. Now the other side with the sink and DW has got me thinking.... The...

Sorry I mean the 110mm will be coming out the floor, but will be cut at ffl when I install the ifh. Ive chiselled back about 2cm of sand/cement render and plaster so that's a saving. If the standpipe is in the corner then the washer has to come out if the tumble dryer comes out. Be good...

It feels like ive got two options: Chisel into the concrete blocks a couple of inches and/or add a stud wall so the 40mm standpipe is within it and the washer can fit as normal.

Downstream is the other side of the house. so I can rod upstream but we are going with the two inspection chambers, ill just have to hide them in/under the patio on either side. What is confusing me now though is the 110mm has to come out the floor somewhere. If it's against the wall as tight...

Hi Currently in the middle of building an extension. The old inspection chamber/manhole is being removed and the drain are being split at that point for the washing machine and sink. The WM will be connected with a 110mm coming out the floor, and a 50mm reducer behind the washing machine and...

Lots of interesting replies, thanks for all the input. so you wouldn't have a ring in the new kitchen even though there will be lots of sockets under and above the worktops? My CU is nearly full. 14 way. CU RCD1 Shower Bathroom fan heater Loft House Lights (up and down as there is a...

Oh nice thanks. I was under the impression hidden cables had to be vertical only. ok thanks I will. i wanted to keep the worktop area nice and clean so whatever i use to isolate an undercounter socket will be hidden in the cupboard. I have 4 spare MCB's.... Sockets, Lights, Oven, and maybe...

well that was my initial thinking. Why even have FCU's when i can just have two double switched sockets for the appliances in the cupboard but as the WM cord wont be long enough I asked the question.... I want some sockets on the worktop anyway so might aswell go with the FCU setup.

Why? If the CU is designed for 2 RCD's x 8 MCBs with SPD, why not?

Thanks for the replies. So not being able to get to the plug to change the fuse in not an issue. Understood. But if the plug can be simply plugged into a normal socket that is easily reached and can be isolated, isnt that just as good/safe/compliant (and cheaper) than having FCUs in the...

Hi We are having a new extension in a few months and I'm trying to figure out the best way of configuring the electrics for the utility side of the room. In my old house the electrician added Fused Spurs above the worktop for each appliance and a unswitched socket under the worktop. Worked OK...

I had to do some Googling then ericmark !! "The C Plan is not used in heating systems anymore but can still be found in older systems." I guess having the DHW being heated when I only want the CH isnt actually using anymore oil.. Thanks

Thanks flameport. Makes total sense and what i would have guessed after creating the wiring diagram. Didn't know such a setup existed. Should there be a way to control the temp of the water?

Hi I had HIVE in my old house so thought I'd buy it again for the new house. I've only had combi boilers in my houses but the new house has an oil boiler on ground floor (grant euroflame 70/90), hot water tank (immersion) on the 1st floor and two tanks in the loft. I've had HEATING on , in...