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hey, why not!!, Taylortwocities has just fitted out his kennel

I know quite a lot of people with cooker outlet plates on their living room walls....honest! Hey, why not turn your house into a commercial premises, and forget part p, you could still stay there overnight as the "Security Guard"!!!

Sounds good to me!!

found these 16th ed zs values if thats any help http://www.voltimum.co.uk/files/gb/others/W/200706055213PagesfromThe-Guide-CAT865.pdf

You would have to terminate the cable in a maintenance free (screwless) junction box. With the necessary cable clamps, all at the appropriate rating (which you dont know yet) and correct size. This would have to be secured (not left floating) to a joist or the like under the floorboards...

HE/SHE (politicly speaking)

you really need an electrician mate. What HE would do is a)test the circuit to see if its live b) find out which mcb on consumer unit isolates it c)if its on a ring main (which as ban all sheds says, it never should have) then he would probably test the integrity of the circuit and...

Part1 EARTHING AND BONDING 3RD EDITION PUBLISHED BY..........NICEIC "Earthing clamps must not be used on paper-insulated/lead sheathed or steel or wire armoured (swa) cables."

start by ringing your supplier and ask them to fit a dp isolator, the reason i say this is, obviously so consumer unit changes can take place easily, also they may well change the meter leaving you with a blank canvas ( so to speak) THEN CALL A PART P REGISTERED COMPETENT PERSON to change...

just had another look at that photo, is that grey t+e cable coming down the supply for socket? either way its unsupported/ incorrectly erected if thats the only cable going in to socket, then it looks like its a spur, this is really pushing it, running a dishwasher and a washing machine...

Yes mate, youd have to protect all circuits, with a 30ma RCD, (unless your light switch drops etc are protected in earthed metal conduit, Doubtful) Since you notified BCO before 17th came in, should'nt be a problem to finish in 16th if they're happy with that. Good luck with the supp bonding

Well theres the nest, Wheres the rat???? id consider putting that main bond clamp back where it belongs (on the pipe) aswell mate!!

and you should be able to isolate them readily (not having to pull the appliance out, or empty a cupboard to reach isolator) They are usually unswitched single sockets controlled by double pole switchs or fused spare switchs, that are readily accessible)

New consumer unit and change of a final circuit cable is a partial rewire Persumably all your Main bonding has been upgraded to suit so why not just work to the 17th and omit supplementary bonding (providing all the appropriate conditions are met ie. disconnection times, rcd protection etc)...

quite true. dishwashers and washing machines can take a hell of a lot of power.

directly under drain pipes is not standard practice no to quote iee "socket outlets should be positioned that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to effect the socket outlet or plug". Usual practice would be to fit the socket to the other side of the washing machine or...

Landlords distribution board, or AKA Communal DB for stairs and hallway lights etc.. the cost of electricity used by this board is liable to the landlord and not to one individual flat

Agile When you say boiler, do you mean heat exchange unit like central heating etc, or do you mean a water heater Because if its the latter and over 15litres in size, then it would need its own dedicated circuit for the electrician to recommision it

do you mean 50watt downlights? douubt youll get them all on one plate, are the other light sockets 50w downlighters too? If they are that nearly 7 amps, if they are normal pendants (100watt each) then thats about 8amp. Is your lighting circuit rated sufficiently?

Try this it explains all http://www.elecsa.org.uk/downloads/public/Re-connecting%20Lighting%20Circuits%20with%20no%20Protective%20Conductor.pdf[/url] that the EIC on that!