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I prefer this stuff

I've got a few nameplates from the "Coventry Corporation Electricity Department" and the "Leicestershire and Warwickshire Electric Power Company" that I picked up on my travels working for WPD... As for meter boards, I know outside meter boxes aren't usually supplied with a new supply/service...

Cost would depend on how much backfill (type 1 or 2 stone followed by sand blinding most likely) is required to bring it up to level, you wouldn't concrete the whole lot, plus cost of concrete and labour in your local area. Then factor in how easy it would be to get the concrete from the mixer...

Disconnect the room stat, it looks like its the grey wire in pin 10 and one of the browns in pin 9 Move the white wire to the 3 port valve to pin 9 Room stat is then bypassed You will also want to remove the neutral and earth going to the old room stat as well. Follow the brown and grey wires...

Pump looks original (house built 1997), from the manuals I can find online the early Wallstars came with Delta's before changing to Danfoss soon afterwards. Bottom of the unit is approx 1700mm off the floor and oil tank is about 10m away. Although it hadn't locked out this morning there was...

As above for the wiring Only problem I had was it all ran back to a junction box by the hot water cylinder and it took a bit of testing with a multimeter to work out where the room stat was wired in to bypass it, nothing in my system followed any y plan diagram I could find online pin or colour...

I've got a problem with my HRM Wallstar (Sterling 40 burner so I'm told), its locking out first fire in the morning, the problem started with the cold weather just before Christmas. One reset used to be enough to get it going, lately that's become 2, 3 or 4 so I decided to look a bit further...

I'm in the process of moving my cold water tank and F&E tank so I can put a proper sized loft hatch in. I am considering putting a drip tray under the tanks, for a few reasons, I had a leak on the isolation valve on one of them which just dripped to the ceiling (fortunately caught it in time)...

While it was all off, I also moved the junction box for the heating about 4 inches lower, as it wasn't fixed to anything and it allowed me to fix it to the skirting board. I took the opportunity to number up all the connections as per the Danfoss diagram I found to make it easier to fault find...

Right...think I've fixed it! Left it running for a few hours on the override, then released it and it wasn't doing it, bingo I thought ! Then realised the heating wasn't turning off, it turned out I had wired up the cylinder stat wrong, I blindly followed the Danfoss Y plan diagram online...

I've just fired up my central heating system after having to re plumb the downstairs due to broken pipes in the concrete floor. It's a Y plan system with a Danfoss HS3 valve. When I turn it on, all is good for around 30 seconds to a minute, then the valve actuator starts clicking and gets hot...

Just as a conclusion to this, the shower started acting weird again the other day, but permanently this time. Turns out the fill valve in the cold water tank was only giving a trickle, and the shower was often sucking on air, so replaced that. That gave a slight improvement, but the pump was...

Forgot to add, if youre wondering how I traced all the pipes, Ive got a cat and Genny for work, I clipped the Genny on to the two pipes either side of the radiator that's been removed in the utility room, and went round with the cat and marked the route with electrical tape. Worked perfectly!

Well the insurance bloke told me I haven't got a claim, I wasn't surprised but the plumber was. I've decided to have a crack at doing this myself, I've got 2 weeks holiday to use by the end of the year so thought why not at least have a go. I've mapped out where all the heating pipes are in...

Floor coverings are ceramic tiles in kitchen/utility so should be good to go with that. Will make sure the carpet in dining room gets rolled back. Good shout on sealing the doors, should be workable as there's a door to outside off the utility room so will work through that. Might buy one...

I need to take the ceiling down in my kitchen and utility room, I need to put in new central heating pipes, spot lights in the ceilings, extractor ducts, etc. Upstairs is chipboard floors and the ceilings are artex which I want rid of anyway so it seemed like the best solution. House was built...

Plasterers and tilers are my most hated at the minute, as I was originally an electrician I have a built in hate for plasterers. Insurance Co are sending a loss adjuster out next Thursday so will report back with what happens after that. If they won't cover it and I'm paying out myself, it'll...

That sounds far too cheap

Houses were all built 1996-1997, supposedly top end houses as they're all either 4 bed detached or bungalows, but the spec seems to be pretty ****. Theres only one power socket in each room for a start... Just caught up with the plumber in the pub (drowning my sorrows) and he says he's showed...

The plumber said he would even refuse to powerflush systems round here with pipes in concrete for the same reason!