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agree with above but go for crankshaft sensor first, bit of a mission as they go around the pump i think, so you will find you may need to cut old one out and new one can be routed different way you will see.

T-cut is good , but not to much, polish over regular , this way potential buyers cant complain that its had a major repair, not that u should hide anything from them either way

Idle air control valve , which sits on the throttle housing, normally controlled with a two wire plug, long cylinder looking on the fords i think

oh ok , what chemical do you suggest , and do you mean to run it through with heating on??? Yeti

Hmmm how was the pump tested, you know i dont know how the engineer did it as i aint the expert, but as for fingers it wont stop with them infact you cant stop the pump by trying to force it to stop...... So how else can a pump be tested , as you are correct, it could work but be slow ...

use a 12v lamp testor and switch each light on and off to loacte whats what.

do you have spare fob? and is it the same with that?

couldnt see the bit that says only 2 wires?

Shouldnt the one in the passage be set to exit/entry zone, this way when you part set for night time it will act as an entry point and as soon as you go up and away from passage alarm will set, when you come back to passge it will trigger entry time instead of acitivating alram giving you time...

Managment light ? engine speed? seems to relate to the crank shalf postion sensor , or the campshaft position sensor, if there is difficulty starting then go for the crank shaft sensor first. some cars dont carry a cam pos sensor.

I know becuase the heating engineer showed me, you didnt see the unfriendly post made earlier to Agile by an engineer on this site, as i think its been deleted, PS pump has been checked and done already. Regards Yeti

You might get better response if you give boiler details and step by step symptoms of problem, dont worry about agile its just the way he is, agile. regards Yeti

So now that i found a real plumber to open up the combustion chamber, I realise why my question wasnt being answered, not all corgi plumbers know what a venturi is and how it works, guess not all of you did the physics of it. Never mind, i getting a new one as the plumber previously...

ahhhh so you got his reply deleted..... you lot are weird you know that but thanks for the advice , remember you know where your edit butt on is, and not the one on the screen. Yeti

muppet ----->cc

er i meant allowed not aloud lol

Is that it then , got to get mr corgi to open it up????? and check if it needs bleeding. Ok serious question, am i aloud to open it myself bleed the air and then put cover back on, but not switch on???? then call mr corgi to do cert check and for leaks etc..... would it save money or mr...

Yes true but there is no sign of rust or sludge when i inspected the water section , pump head...... unless what the manual says that a blockage maybe in the venturi what ever that is!

DOH! Auto air vent! , sorry just remebered that sits next to pump, which seems to be working fine, So u think air in system, and whats the venturi?

ok whats the AAV??? i can check that b4 calling mr corgi....... also manual keeps talking about a venturi? is that just where the two pipes from the diff valve connect???