Search results

Cut a piece of 18mm plywood to suit and lay on top of the hearth. I would not rely on the underlay to cover up the differences in level.

Looking at your sketch, I would suggest that the roof rafters span from external wall to ridge, with the purlin acting as support to the mid length of rafter. You don't say how long the purlin is, but you say it is supported mid-way between gable end and party wall, so that would be pretty...

Depends which concrete block you are using and what the actual concrete block is made of (aerated, ggbfs, pfa, etc), its density and compressive strength. eg A Durox Supabloc has a k=0.11W/mK and a Tarmac Hemelite (7N) has a k=0.51W/mK. [R=1/k].

At 4" thick, you are going to struggle with breaking it up with a sledge hammer! You certainly won't touch the concret with a bolster and hammer. Probably just worth replacing the pipe if you break it. I'd hire a jackhammer for the weekend.

Given the age of the property and the Spanish property influence, I would suggest tat most of the main structure is likely to constructed from timber beams. Mosts of the timber will have been locally sourced, so don't expect it will have been squared off and shaped to suit modern day timber...

Looks non-structural to me from the photos. Highly unlikely to be structural if built-off the floor boards. No sign of any inclined bracing in the stud wall.

I've used Rawl Interset M6 x 65 Heavy Duty Cavity Fixings (similar to loply). You need to check whether you have single or double skin plasterboard. They are great but make sure you use the appropriate tool for inserting them into the wall.

A 203 x 102 x 23 UB (Grade S355), spanning 3.6m, will take a 2 tonne (20kN) load at it's centre, without any additional lateral restraints. The 16' beam (4.8m long), is a little more tricky. If we say it is taking 2 No 20kN loads at third span points. Unrestrained you would need a 254 x 146 x...

If using Local Authority, I would agree with others that Full Plans application is better (and you get a certificate at the end). However, you MAY get a better deal out of an Approved Inspector but it depends on the size of work. If you go AI, you need to ensure the Initial Notice is issued to...

You are ultimately responsible. Some work can be done under a Building Notice and usually your Builder will sort this out. Other work will require an application. This can be done with your Local Authority or through the now many independent Approved Inspectors.

I have only ever used foamed concrete to fill large voids (cellars, behind retaining walls).

I'm happy to help you with this. Although you have quoted everything is lb and feet, I assume you are based in the UK, in which case you will be needing in SI units (as most published information is based on this). A quick sketch would be useful to support your written description above. We...

OK, this sounds like a standard yard gully. You need to clean out the silt in the bottom of the gully pot. You can either do this yourself or get someone in to "suck" it out. The rubber seal, accesses the main drain run (for rodding) purposes. At the bottom of the gllu another pipe leads up...

You need to check the Land Title Register Entry as well as the Land Registry Plan (both are available from landregistry.gov for about £3 each). You may find that the common drive is described with right of access (by foot and by vehicle) across the common drive. This would mean implementing...

Why not just add a softwood timber plate to the top of the RSJ?

Either would be fine. You might also want to look at Excalibur bolts. (These are concrete self-cutting bolts). We use them for bolting bollards onto concrete slabs. There are of of course others on the market.

You will only need calculations if you have not complied fully with the requirements of Part A of B.Regs. Most LA's and Approved Inspectors will check your application against Part A. If they want additional calculations they will ask for them.

Couple of rules of thumb for haunch brackets are: Length of haunch = 10 % of span Depth of haunch = same depth as rafter However, for a 3.2m high building with frames at 4.5m centres, I would have expected larger sections than 152 x 89 UBs.

If it only appears during a prolonged period of rain, this could mean it is coming in from above the conservatory roof, but more likely it is from ground water. If the house is 1940's, do you know if it has a Damp Proof Course? There are various chemical injection systems on the market to...

Difficult to tell from the photo but would suggest this needs a little more investigation. Is it near any drainage , as it would appear that you are losing material/soil somewhere and it would be unlikely that the foundations have been designed to span cavities. I would suggest locally...