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Hi all. just a quickie. I have removed a load of wall tiles from the kitchen of a 50's built house. The tiles were stuck to the wall using cement so I gunned the whole lot off back to bare brick. The plaster on the top half is passable but my plasterer reckons it best to remove the lot...

Anyone?

Ah. Thanks for that. Thought I'd have to lift the house. :) Also. Someone has suggested just a soldier course ( 4'2" Span) and just a bit of angle iron on the outer skin, and NO accros? Would this be possible/wise? Also, does anyone know what brick that is?

Hi Tony. Thanks for that. also, is there a way of telling when the accrows are wound up enough? Or just as tight as I can by hand? :)

Anyone?

But my point is that once connected and switched on. assuming there are no obvious faults showing within 2 mins, the likelyhood of any faults are extremely thin, surely. The only checks that are likely to be needed in most cases are earth faults and rev polarity checks Etc - both of which may...

Well, I would have thought a lot of the faults tested for would show themselves up pretty quick (Blue flash, Smoke, CU tripping) but I am sure that a few could show up only under certain , fairly unlikely, conditions, but that they have to be tested for regardless Not being a Leccy I wouldn't...

Studying the problem with all the suggestions made in mind, I am inclined to agree, that as it is a South facing wall in full sun (Usually) that it is in fact just thermal movement along with a bad window install. My intention is still to chock up the wall and drop the window. Put in a new...

So would you say that the majority of these tests are checking human error more than product failure?

Just as an aside, do many installations actually fail? (Poor cable, insulation, Sockets, Etc) on a new install? Al that testing seems to be overkill when compared to days of yore when it wasn't done. I agree entirely with the correct routing of cables, earthing Etc etc but how necessary is...

Fortunately the wall isn't load bearing, Tony. Re heli bars. - I had considered that approach (Using resin??) but was hoping to just get away with chiseling out the mortar and replacing with a 3-1 mix for strength, 3-4 days before propping up as I didn't want to further 'crack' the brickwork...

Thanks all, for the advice and info. Good to know what I am paying for and to know what to look out for.

Leccy has't finished the job yet as he has a mains circuit to extend for the kitchen. Just that I watched the whole install of the 30a circuit right through to connecting the cooker which was then switched on. That was that. Perhaps he has done so many and as it was all new wiring, he...

Hi, Can someone tell me if a leccy is meant to test a 6mm 30a circuit before connecting and if so what tests should have been carried out? Installation was a 32a RCD, 6mm run of cable (4Mtrs) to isolater switch, then connection to outlet and then to cooker.

I thought that would support the brickwork sufficiently enough. Are you saying it wont? Those four bricks on top of the window are held in place only by the silicon seal above. There appears to be nothing else holding the bricks up on the outside wall although there is a soldier course arch...

Hi, Could someone please advise me. I recently purchased a property that is in need of some work. I am about to fit a new kitchen but the kitchen window is in need of some TLC based on the fact that there are cracks in the brickwork and what appears to be a couple of bits of old wood...

Yep, Thanks. it would appear to be the 1st one in from the front of the machine. (Black connector) Looks like I am lucky - just the one blown off. Soldering iron now heating up. Thanks BTW the part came from AMAZON marketplace (Radford Vac Centre ) who were VERY helpful, and was...

I have a WM53 with the same problem but I replaced the door switch and still the problem is there. I have now connected the red to brown (L to C) using a toggle switch and it works fine. I assume the only danger is that someone might get their arm ripped off by the spinning drum (or...

Thanks guys. Depending on the cooker I will use either one of those suggestions. Thanks for the help.:) And I shall meke sure that the cooker has a 5A fuse and NOT a 3A fuse. . . . . . . . . ..........Only joking.:)

I have a 45A fuse in the newly fitted Consumer unit feeding via 6mm t&e into THIS wall mounted above worktop height then into a 45A Cooker Outlet like this mounted BELOW the worktop height