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    Concrete floor concerns

    Thank you. Useful piece of information. I've had to break a few tiles, which are brown and brittle. I need to find more information, hopefully I'll be alright... :(
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    Re-plastering behind double socket

    The two black cables come from the concrete floor and go vertically behind the sockets, but are hidden by the plaster ( I can see them where the skirting board use to be). One is kind of rugged, under 1 inch thick and I think it brings electricity to the garage (outdoor building) but there is a...
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    Re-plastering behind double socket

    After having switched all switches off on the control unit, I looked at the white plastic double socket, which is part of a ring circuit. The skirting board has been taken off so I could see two thick black cables running underneath it (I have a solid concrete floor). Next to the socket I have...
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    Re-plastering behind double socket

    I think I will use a choc box, but before I proceed, in case there isn't enough slack on the cables, could I unscrew the double plastic socket from the wall, put back the face plate and let the whole socket hang slightly? Will the weight of the double socket be ok on the cables?
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    Concrete floor concerns

    What I can see of the floor is Vinyl tiles, DPM (bitumen paint that must have been used to seal the tiles), mortar screed, then scabbled concrete base.
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    Concrete floor concerns

    It is a solid ground floor (no air vents). I thought maybe when the concrete base was originally laid it could have been done in layers rather than in one go, meaning that a section of one layer perhaps may not have completely "glued" to the other layer, therefore creating that hollowish feel...
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    Re-plastering behind double socket

    The plaster on a wall is cracked and almost loose. I need to re-plaster part of the wall and unscrew/remove the double socket. Is insulating the wires with insulating tape safe enough while waiting for the plaster to dry for a few days?
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    Fireplace backfill

    Sand and lime (without cement) is a little bit better since it will be more flexible at expanding/contracting with the heat and is less prone to cracking. Old chimneys were parged (rendered) with lime mortar (sand & lime).
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    Making a chimney breast deeper

    Plasterboard could crack since it is not heat resistant. Lime mortar was used in the old days to parge chimney flues. You could try and use lime plaster on the underside along the top of the chimney opening.
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    Concrete floor concerns

    I live on the ground floor of a small block of flats built in the late 40's. I want to put a laminated wooden floor in the lounge but by taking the carpet and underlay off first I noticed the screed had a few cracks. Wanting to repair that first, I used a cold chisel and club hammer to remove...
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