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I might measure the loop impedance between Neutral and Earth (with all loads disconnected/turned off) when I am next up at the house and see if I get a reading very close to 0.00Ω, indicating a local bridge and thus TN-C-S.

So this is my supply at my new property and when I first saw during a house viewing back in July and before I gave it any real attention, I thought it was TN-C-S. Then a EICR later on I had done said it was TN-S, making me think it was split concentric and TN-S due to where the main earth...

Need to wait till the water company replace the lead on their side of the water meter as a problem has also been identified there. Even before I did what I did, when you opened the cold tap nearest to the new incoming supply, the cold flow rate would start fast and then drop off considerably...

I stand corrected, it was 25mm MDPE in, not 28mm. I realised that once I looked at the original stopcock had 25 and 15 written on each side of it, referring to the pipe sizes. Don't know where I got the 28mm number from, before I actually checked. Anyway I decided to proceed ahead and replace...

About 3.5 meters from the main 28mm to 15mm stop cock to where it splits at the T to feed the cold upstairs and the combi's supply. The lenth between the T and the combi boiler is about 1.5 meters and the lenth between the T and the furthest cold tap upstaits is about 3 meters.

Hi all, got a quick question regarding pipe size and flow rate. From where my new 28mm mains comes in blue plastic pipe and then gets reduced to 15mm at the internal stop cock and is all 15mm onwards inside, if i replaced this with a 28mm to 22mm internal stop cock and then run 22mm pipe to a...

Does anyone have a copy of the latest (5th eddition) Electrical Installation Design Guide on them and can look up the current demand assumed for a lighting outlet in a domestic setting? I recall it has been updated from 100W to 30W, but I don't have a copy of the Electrical Installation Design...

I'll be living in it at the same time. Not sure how thick the plaster is, but it's a terrace house built in the 1930's with traditional red brick walls.

So I am soon going to needing to be doing some internal wall chasing very soon (around 55 full height chases for sockets and data points and 20 half height chases for light switches) and wanted to know what everyone is using for wall chasing? My chasing will be internal in traditional red...

And that's my exact point, is the PE insulation (or HDPE in my case) on data cable officially rated at 1000V AC???

I'm a bit confused at what point your exactly getting at. That the insulation on data cables are in effect rated at => 230v, that the separation needs to be 150mm, that one should buy Data/TV Coax cables rated for the same voltages as mains band II cables (if you even can?), something else...?

That raises another question though, even though data, aerial/satellite coax, alarm cables, telephone cables, etc... cables are PVC insulated, what are they officially rated at from a voltage perspective?

I did. Look at 7.4.2 (b) below. (Reg 528.8 strangely does not mention 50mm or 150mm and seems to relate to underground cables.) I'm not sure how running parallel T&E wires down a wall would fall under 7.4.2 (a), so I guess would fall under 7.4.2 (b) instead.

When was that done and by who? That would seem to violate the current regs based on my interpretation of them.

Except in that case, the data part of the cable is surrounded in insulation that is rated equal or higher to the mains part of the cable.

So section 7.4.2 in the OSG (Currently page 93) says that Band 1 data cables and Band 2 mains power cables need to be 150mm apart from each other, except under certain cases defined under sub section (a) like where they are enclosed in a separate conduit, are of mineral insulated type, etc...

1 Bathroom and 1 Kitchen currently as is, may add 2nd bathroom via loft conversion way down the line. Litters per second is unknown at this stage as have not moved in yet.

Quick question, out of the two boilers below, what would you say is the better and more reliable one? 1) Vaillant ecoTEC plus 940 Boiler 2) Viessman Vitodens 111-W Boiler 3) Or how about the Vaillant EcoTEC Pro 24 which is not a storage combi, but has the "aquaCOMFORT System" which is...

I just fear that whilst I could get all the parts myself for say for £2500-3000 inc vat, yet I would have to pat another £1000-2000 on top of this for someone’s labour, which I have not really got the money for.

I know of course one would have to inspect it at various stages and would have to be involved before you started any work. Obviously it would be no good if you had already put floorboards back down and had filled in chases in the walls, covering up how the cable was run and making sure it...