Search results

I would be changing the flex first, can we see a pic? Like you say it might not be passing enough water if kinked

**** on the seal face and or seal dried out take it apart clean it up and apply a little grease

TBH i dont think you need extra nozzles or remote head, i have never needed them for any job, if you improve your torch skills you can do it all with a sure fire 2

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-super-fire-torch-propane-gas-cylinder/83005?kpid=83005&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Tools-_-Shopping%20-%20Tools&gclid=CjwKEAjw55K4BRC53L6x9pyDzl4SJAD_21V11WzfJ0atltTf3qrRu...

You get what you pay for... Or dont

The goverment grant boilers came with 2 years Min AFAIK, dosnt matter what the warranty card says in the boiler box everyone gets different.

If you take the heat ex front plate of you can sometimes see it spraying out or make sure boiler is stone cold then dry sump internally and pressurise to 2.5 bar if sump gets wet its the heat ex knackered

Not really, if the pipework is nowhere near full then there is plenty of room for expansion

Its a great hobby to get the family out instead of staying in with internet and tv! Although i must admit i prefer to leave them at home and go caching on my own or with the dog!

What size pipe is at the hallway rad? If its 10 mm then i certainly would NOT tee into it

I use a 1/2 inch male iron to copper for the flex to screw onto perfect fit.

Yes if you look at the pic it has bi directional arrows on the valve body

Old systems were piped this way so its ok, unless you have a combi!

I wouldnt even of thought it was a boiler problem myself, Leaving a stat phail isnt really a boiler fault is it Tony thats just carelessness

It should be your first step!

Tony is in the uk top 100 engineers you know :rolleyes:

Yes you are correct in what you are saying, i hope your linking harness end and not the switch! (Obvious i know but nothing suprises me) use a multimeter on continuity on the switch themselves when unplugged aswell just to check if not jammed.

Just the two flow switches one for a dhw demand the other to prove pump is running, thought you had a Ready tested this and its ok?

Have the new pcbs been set up correctly? There are lots of dip switches on the pcbs and links.

Link the ch flow switch out it also acts as a primary flow switch dont test anything inside the combustion box, the part tony refers to that can be cleaned out sound like the flow switch i mentioned, if that dosnt make when pump runs then nothing else will work