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Joking I'd say a good pair of Oven Gloves. Seriously though read the comments against post http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=102095 first.

Lets start with a couple of clarifications:- Agreed, the key concept I wanted to establish was the difference between shared and dedicated circuits. True, I didn’t suggest you can/do – but if its confusing DON’T. Ok, Lee I’ve re-read your posts and have noticed you other linked post...

Yes we all know. Try searching. Where did you get £40 from? Has anyone been given figures from their local BC yet. Most BC fees are based on the material costs of the job. Anyone know differently?

You might find a plug in timeswitch is better/safer. What happens when you turn the room lights on?? As an aside does anyone know how many people are killed each year by XMas lights??

Hmmm ... doubt it - more liekely the switched line. It should have come with instructions. Are these external lights?

If your light fitting is rated below IPX4 it cannot go in Zone 2. I’m sorry but you cannot lower the zone 2/3 boundary.

Single probe neon testers cannot be relied upon. The only way to test is with a multi-meter or dual probe tester. If you don’t own one you should call an electrian.

Do a search in this forum for chocboxes. Lots of picures and links.

Cookers, Showers, Heaters and Immersion Heaters all share the characteristic that they draw large constant currents for a long period of time. For this reason they are treated very differently from ring and radial socket supplies that are normal expected to draw low levels of current with...

Any professional sparky who doesn't have spurs.

Oh Boy! Where to start? 1) Is the junction box now on the hardboard? 2) What size was the original cooker supply and its fuse? 3) So you have the double oven, extractor, hob, fan heater (off a trailing extension flex??) microwave and Cooker Isolator socket all of the same wiring? 4)...

Sorry, But it doesn’t really sound up to date. 6 way re-wirable fuses – I’d have expected an updated system to have a new CU and an RCD. A professional update would have complied with BS7671. It has required RCD’s for sockets capable of supplying external appliances since 1991. Do you have an...

SAFTY FIRST: Please tell us you switch off the whole CU before stumbling around. Touch the live bus bar and you will end up at best badly burnt, worst dead The "tab" was most likely the DIN rail connector. It has no effect on the MCB’s operation – its there to hold the MCB against the...

You need to trace and identify your wiring, most of which will be in the roof above the bathrooms. Look at the reference section for help. You will hopefully either have a loop in system or a JB system. Check with a surveyor on removing the wall. Use JB’s for the new wiring. One supplying...

I hear the voices of derision already … but if I was you I’d start by getting a professional in to check the existing wiring or even get a proper a Periodic Inspection Report. They will be able to spot any problems that need fixing (as opposed to the nice to haves.). Updating bits can be...

Part M heights only apply to new builds. You will only need to relocate sockets if they are so low as to damage the flex cables plugged into them. (The old figure was 150mm if I recall correctly). New builds should put sockets/light switches between 450mm and 1200mm off the floor.

I’d be surprised if the rose was broken. I think if it was me I’d start again. I’m assuming you have three or four cables. 1. Loop in 2. Switch cable 3. Fan Supply out. 4. Loop out (optional) I’d firstly identify the light switch line. (Obviously with all the supply off) You can...

Yes the current fan doesn't need the earth. But a replacement might in the future. You know the earth is not connected but a future DIYer might not. Up to the early 70's it was common practice not to carry the earth around lighting circuits. This is still causing problems with metal face...

The earth should be carried through to the fan. If the fan supply is coming from the loop supply and going back to the loop neutral then as you say you would have a perm supply. In which case, the light status on or off would not affect the operation of the fan. The problem is it is...

Where exactly did you get the supply from? My guess is ether you have taken it across the light switch and return wires or from the opposite side of the light’s 2 way switch. Also where did you terminate the earth? It should run all the way to the fan where it should be neatly terminated.