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  1. K

    Replacing a 2 gang 2 way switch

    Basically A used to switch to A1 or A2 (depending on switch position) and B used to switch to B1 or B2 On you new switch, COMMON switches to L1 or L2 which is above or below the COMMON in question So basically you will have one COMMON on the top (with an L1 and L2 below it). That's one...
  2. K

    Earth seems to be live

    Sorry, you have added a 3 core cable (I assume a standard twin and earth) and wired the two ends of the earth to what? I assume in the switch it is wired to the metal box, or at least the small terminal on the back of the box in the case of plaster surface mounts? Then the other end to the...
  3. K

    Cooker Hood Wiring

    Time to get a multimeter out! It seems likely the yellow might be some for of control wire from the light switch of something, but only definate (And safe) way to trace it will be disconecting the circuit back at the Consumer Unit and then tracing it using a simple continuity test.
  4. K

    changing transformer

    Tansformers tend to only have one outlet, which will be made of cable rated at over the maximum supply current of the transformer. Therefore providing the transfer is above the minimum you require for the number of lamps you are going to connect, you can just wire them all in parrell to the...
  5. K

    electic shower

    Sorry 50A would be better, was thinking 9.5 at the time :p You can get 14s now, but tend to be for commercial installations.
  6. K

    Spur

    Perhaps you could fit some 5Amp round pin lighting sockets, and run them off the downstairs or upstairs lighting circuit. If you are going to fit a 13amp socket thou, you MUST really use a ringmain or a fused spur connection. Although you might only be using a few amps, who is to say that when...
  7. K

    electric cooker install

    Don't be tempted to "join" more cable on whatever you do!
  8. K

    electic shower

    1 bar is usualy plenty, although if your water is fed from a roof tank, you may have the option of fitting a pump to increase the flow rate (DON'T DO THIS IF IT'S DIRECTLY WATER MAINS FED) Most electric showers are in the 9-10kw range, which give ample temperature for a decent flow rate...
  9. K

    Varilight Dimmer

    The later model ones have a capacitor fitted that keeps the remote memory for around an hour or two. Have these switchs throughout my flat, and have two which are slave/master connected. It's not a straight forward swap over from convential two way single pole switchs to these, as they use a...
  10. K

    Central Heating system wont stay on

    Yup, usualy have to press and hold the gas supply button for a good 20-30secs after the pilot has ignited to warm up the little flame detector, otherwise it thinks the pilot has gone out and cuts off the gas.
  11. K

    Replacing Rad & Rad vavles on a pressurized (Combi fed)

    Okie doke, I will let you know how I get on :) - hopefully still from a nice warm flat.
  12. K

    Installing a new consumer Unit

    I have lost count of how many Consumer Units I have helped friends replace (at a DIY level). Although I HAVE done it live before, I wouldn't suggest ANYONE attempt it without fully understanding the risks involved and have a full set of insulated tools. Most common practice now is to ring...
  13. K

    Replacing Rad & Rad vavles on a pressurized (Combi fed)

    Draining is no problem, but the "filling loop"? mmmm sounds interesting! Can't switch off main water, that's another issue for next weekend. The stop cock is in a tiny cupboard with very little access and is completely limescaled open. It controls a feed from a HUGE tank on the roof (block...
  14. K

    Replacing Rad & Rad vavles on a pressurized (Combi fed)

    I am trying to fit a towel rail in replacement of a radiator in my bathroom. I have taken the old radiator off whilst decorating, and simply used the valves either side to isolate it. However I now which to change some of the pipework to chrome and install new valves. The problem is, the CH is...
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