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NEVER block access to your cistern and isolation valves. It will come back to haunt you.

why anyone would risk removing a wall without getting professional advice first is beyond me. you're obviously concerned enough to post here asking for help, so i suggest you phone a pro. no one is going to be able to give you a solid answer by looking at those two pictures. don't take risks...

Not sure if I misunderstood you but you MUST leave access to your isolation valves. Do not seal it completely. The wall hung toilets you see in restaurants always have access to behind the wall somehow.

i used a window sill on top of mine with an overhang at the front around 20mm. see here: this kind of thing: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Cladding/Window-Boards/c/1000263 you should also look to get some hole saw attachments for your drill for the holes...

make sure any isolation valves are located towards the top of the framework and make the 'lid' of the box removable for easy access.

here's a video showing the installation of that type of toilet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VErh8lisvi8 and here's more info http://www.duravit.co.uk/website/homepage/products/further_information/new_durafix.com-en.html and here's a link to the installation instructions...

Fixing the toilet wont be difficult even with invisible fixings. They all come with instructions. Is it me or is your frame work slightly out of line? This might cause a problem when you come to add the plasterboard. The plasterboard needs to be nice and tight to the frame or it'll...

browse the internet for pictures of the type of stuff you would like, give pictures to fitter so he can find similar bits from his own suppliers. I think that's the middle ground between being a picky customer and just letting the fitter choose what your bathroom looks like.

i'd always get a professional opinion when removing a wall that isn't a stud partition. Costs less than someones funeral.

be interested to see an actual floor plan of that room with dimensions. there might be a way to be clever with the space.

you thought about something like this? http://www.sanctuary-bathrooms.co.uk/bathroom-furniture/bathroom-vanity-units/floorstanding-vanity-units/650-vanity-unit-ceramic-basin-and-wc-unit.html by the looks of things, it wouldn't require much change to your pipes and would box them all in in...

pictures would be useful. if by capped screws you mean the heads are rounded, they may just be decorative caps over normal screws. if you take a small screwdriver and gently try to pick one off you'll soon find out. you shouldn't need to give it much force if that's what they are.

you don't need to seal the plasterboard. yes, my wall is normal brick. you will have to secure to the brick not the plasterboard. you will be fine so long as you use the correct wall plugs for your type of brick. if unsure which plug to use, try asking for advice in the Building subforum...

I will just add that if it was me, and I wasn't 100% sure what the plans meant, i would phone the structural engineer and find out. Better to be safe than sorry.

i would advise against making them yourself. this is probably the kind of thing they're talking about. http://www.travisperkins.co.uk/p/supreme-concrete-padstone-300x140x102mm/859822/3893467

The wooden frame doesn't have to be very substantial at all if you're using one of the recommended steel mounting frames as all of the weight goes through that rather than your timber frame. I used 2x4 and smaller to make frame then clad the whole thing with plasterboard. The view in that...

i could be wrong but I think PC is short for precast. I think they are suggesting using part of a precast beam as a padstone. possibly because padstones are not normally in the dimensions stated.

In the picture you've posted they have secured the toilet to the wooden frame they've made (at least that's what it looks like). This is fine, or you can buy a toilet mounting frame (which is what I did). This is bolted to the wall behind, and the floor making for a very secure toilet. here's...