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At the point of lockout, pull out the burner and look at the nozzle and into the combustion chamber for signs of oil. If oil is there, change the EBI ignition unit. Stix.

If none of the previously mentioned fixes the problem, check the electrodes for cracks and leads for shorts. If ok change the EBI unit. Stix.

There is also a filter in the pump which should be cleaned. Pump is probably bfp 11 in which case 4 allen headed screws (1 at each corner of face plate) need undoing to reveal the filter. If bfp21 pump then 1 allen cap on top of pump needs removing to reveal filter. If electrodes look clean...

I didn't mean to remove the filter completely, just reposition it after the tee to the boiler and add another one on the aga oil pipe.

Almost impossible to clean a nozzle. Get a new one with same markings on the side. Also run the burner, when locks out remove burner and see if oil on nozzle or in combustion chamber. If it's oily you've probably got no spark. There are no Thermecon's round here, which burner have you got ?

Yes the water will go down the vertical. You need to arrange the pipes so that each pipe after the tee is horizontal and fit a filter to each pipe. This way you will catch the water/sludge in the filter and prevent problems at the aga which potentially could lead to a small explosion. Stix.

Spraggo, no one mentioned another pump ? Also the oil is not even entering the building let alone getting to the pump. No point checking the pressure till there is oil at the pump.

If there is oil at the pump and the fan runs then locks out, considering it all worked before it could be a blocked nozzle. There are several other posibilities such as pump, coupling, p. cell, etc . First check if oil is at the pump. Stix.

Having read your post again if there is only one filter and it's supplying aga and boiler it would be the aga which would struggle before the boiler. Therefore the problem lies mainly in the pipe supplying the boiler only.It is advisable to have a filter on each supply pipe and do away with the...

Kerosene freezes in the -40's so thats not your prob. Water as already stated will sit at the lowest point in an oil line, expands on freezing and blocks the pipe. If you have a filter bowl in the oil line this will catch most if not all of the water and should be cleaned/renewed. Other than...

Surely you're not heating the cyl. with the boiler as well. If you do this the rayburn has nowhere to lose its heat. Put the boiler on central heating only. If the boiler feeds the cyl. on gravity you'll need to have the system altered to allow rayburn to heat the cyl. and the boiler only puts...

If a pump can't maintain pressure its either fecked, not getting a good fuel supply or not being driven properly (thats presuming you've tried adjusting the pressure with your gauges). Faulty pump seals can allow air to be sucked in where there is no head of oil. If the air is coming from the...

If you've cleaned all filters and no other blockage in fuel line (eg ice,crap) then the pump, flexi or fire valve could be at fault. Impossible to say which without seeing it. I'd check all pipe joints are good, then change the f.v. and flexi as these cheapest options, then pump. I've had all of...

I've not seen any valve which could not be adjusted. Can you post pictures of the valve with the top plate removed ? Stix.

Plenty of air is good for getting the fire started but once established too much air passing through the fire just carries the heat away and up the chimney while burning your logs really fast. As mentioned, once well alight regulate the spinner and damper to allow air for combustion. Also the...

Do get it checked as the chances of setting the fuel pressure right without a gauge are about as good as winning the grand national. Also you may be burning more fuel than needed, damage the baffles and/or be producing high levels of carbon monoxide. Good luck. Stix.

You will need an oil pressure gauge, flue gas analyser and smoke pump to set up the burner as well as knowing how to use them properly. Best to get in someone who is skilled to do this as they will have their own kit as well as checking the flue. If you insist doing it yourself some of the...

Have the chimney swept and test it for leaks and draught. Also clean out all the internal flues on the rayburn as many have not been cleaned at all if maintained by someone who has no real idea what they are doing. Clean fuel such as anthracite or well seasoned wood will help as already...

Have you fitted a room stat ?

Boff wrote (Not to mention inhibitor and noise reducer - what a waste that's going to be!) No need to waste your inhibitor and noise reducer. Just turn off the pump valves and swap the pump without draining down.