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Thanks for the replies. I see your point woody but the head of the frame is going to have to be fixed in some way as the window is 1800mm wide. Whilst foam could be used and may do the trick I think I would prefer to gamble on a couple of proper fixings. I also have a set of french doors...

Was wondering if something like this maybe the answer, this would drill the lintel then fasten the frame to it. http://www.timcouk.com/ProductGrp/Wing_Tip_Self_Drilling_Heavy_Section_Roofing_Screws Cheers.

Hi, just wondering if any of the window guys had any tips as to what is the best way to fix the head of the window frame to a steel lintel? Is it just a case of drilling through the frame and steel lintel with a HSS drill bit then drilling on into the brick with a masonry drill bit, then fix...

I'm only basing my hate of aerated blocks on the Thermalites used on the inner leaf of my extension, given my time again I would have used standard concrete blocks, maybe the fibolites are a better block. Good luck with your build :)

My personal opinion of aerated blocks (Thermalite etc,.) are that they are rubbish, I would advise you to stay clear of them if you have the option. Yes on paper they maybe give a slightly better U value than standard blocks but in the real World I would rather have blocks that stick together...

Thanks, but I can tell you it was a slow process. I used a breaker to remove the bulk of it then changed to a sds hammer drill and chipped away at it at a shallow angle, as the clay pipes are glazed the concrete came away from most of the pipe quite cleanly, but there's always the odd bit here...

Too true, I've just finished the drains for my extension and the old clay pipes had been encased in about 6" of concrete, this obviously slowed the job down a lot as I had to carefully remove the concrete without damaging the pipe so I could install a new inspection chamber to the existing...

Could the drain pipe not be moved or extended so that the water coming from it went away from your garage, is there not a gully somewhere that it could run to. Cheers.

Can the metal ones be fitted to the sides of the joists rather than to the tops & bottoms? If they're fitted to the top of the joist will they not have to have a rebate cut?

I'll use that method as it will stop any moisture from the mortar getting to the timber. Cheers.

:shock: Block & Render ? :lol:

Are you sure that price is correct as it works out to £9.12 each, was it not per 1000 which would make them 91p each.

Hi, sorry for the delay with the reply…. @ theoldun, The extension is only 2.3m internal so the span isn’t a problem with 47 x 145mm joists, there is a small section where the span will be 3.9m but this will have a sleeper wall at approx mid span. I did think about using smaller joists like...

Hi, Yeah I was intending to cut the concrete blocks in half length ways to get 2 out of 1 and put a strip of DPC under the wall plate. I've read that the wall plate should be sat on a bed of mortar with the DPC sandwiched in the mortar on top of the sleeper wall. I'm unsure about the wall...

Hi, Now I have the drains all in on my ground floor extension it's time to put the oversite down. To get the required 150mm min of space between the top of the oversite and the bottom of the joists the oversite would have to be about 75mm lower than the outside ground level. The BCO told me...

Hi, Sorry to throw this at you but is there any particular reason why you are using Thermalites? This is just my personal opinion but I would avoid using them if you can especially below ground level, in fact I would advise you not to use them at all if possible and use standard concrete...

You'll find everything you want to know, mixing ratios, amounts of materials you need etc, at the link below. http://www.pavingexpert.com/

Just found this so I guess if one manufacture uses that method they all will, so yes you are quite correct, it is rafter pitch. http://www.monier.co.uk/faq-s/performance-and-appearance.html That said I would still try to keep the roof at the best (highest ) pitch practical.

I'll have to take your word on that one as I don't know for sure if that's the case.

Yes you would just mix it pour it repeat etc... If you had hardcore down (broken bricks, rubble etc) you would only need the concrete approx 3 inches deep. Take a look on Paving Expert for information on concrete etc... http://www.pavingexpert.com/