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To help stop the rain going under the tiles you would increase the headlap of the tile to 100mm (75mm is standard) It's also worth bearing in mind that the pitch (angle) of the roof tiles will be a couple of degrees less than the pitch of the rafters, in the case of the Marley Wessex I think...

It's also worth bearing in mind that the pitch (angle) of the roof tiles will be a couple of degrees less than the pitch of the rafters, could be important if you have a low pitch!

The Paving Expert site has loads of information on concrete and all other aspects of ground works, I've always found it to be a very informative site. http://www.pavingexpert.com/mortars.htm#mixos I've used wickes ballast before for concrete, 6 buckets of ballast to one of cement should...

It's worth bearing in mind that the cement used can make a big difference to the finished colour of the mortar, if you want it dark you're best to use just ordinary Portland cement and stay away from the multi blended cements like mastercrete as these tend to give a much lighter finish.

Just to add to my previous coments, I'm my experience aerated blocks (Thermalites) are very prone to cracking and they don't seem to stick together very well when using standard mortar, I know this as the inner leaf of my extension has been built with them, given my time over again there is...

I would advise you to stay away form any sort of aerated blocks, use concrete blocks for a much more solid job and have a wider cavity if necessary.

"Bodge" !

I also have some dry lining to do and was thinking of using the foam, is it really as easy as it looks? Cheers.

Just wondering what you used in the end to solve the problem? Cheers.

Glad you're sorted :) Cheers.

Is the flush any better now then? Cheers.

Hi, Well I went to discuss my proposed drain layout with BC this afternoon and good news, the guy said everything I wanted to do was fine. He understood my reasons for not wanting to have to run a vent pipe up the side wall of the house and agreed that using the top portion of the existing...

Thank for your help, I'm off to speak to BC this afternoon so I'll post back and let you know the outcome. Cheers.

Yeah the plastic push fit fittings will work fine on the central heating system and the hot and cold water system. Not sure what you mean here? Do you have an open vented hot water system? Where is your hot water cylinder located? Where is the tank that feeds the hot water cylinder...

Thanks for that. :) At least if I know the system I have on the 2nd diagram will work I have room to negotiate with the BCO, actually he a nice bloke who's very accommodating. All I'm trying to do is to save having to have the vent of the soil pipe coming through the roof of the new...

Lets just say the BCO didn't ask for a SVP though, would my proposed system work ok? I'm just not sure if you can have the soil stack dropping from the 1st floor to the ground with out a vent on top of it, even though the vent would be at the head of the run going into the stack. Cheers.

Can anyone advise if this would be ok? I would like to know if it's a possibility before I talk to the BCO. Thanks.

Yeah it's perfectly fine to use plastic for your new rads, if you use chrome pipe from under the floor to the rad valves make sure to sand the chrome off the pipe where it goes into the push fit fitting as the grip rings in the fitting may not grip the chrome resulting in the pipe parting from...

H, yeah the new toilet has a new type flapper valve if that's what you call them, it can do a full flush or a half flush with a button on top of the cistern. I appreciate everything said but the old toilet flushed fine with an even flow of water around the rim so the rim channels weren't...

With respect to all of the advice already given, it could also be just a crap (pardon the pun) toilet pan. We have recently just replaced the toilet in the 1st floor bathroom, it was an older toilet with a 9 litre flush, whilst the cistern flushed fine we still has problems, took a couple of...