Search results

wrap some foam pipe lagging round some strips of wood then screw them to wall at the point which is going to be nearest the car

remove a course of bricks and drop the frame by as much is needed, you don't have to drop it the whole course, pack it to the exact height you need, when the doors are fitted fill the gaps with wood/ expanding foam/ or sand and cement then buy plastics strip to finish it off.

support the old lintel with a couple of strongboys then fit a new lintel above the window and brick up above it, id probly take out that half a brick on the left just under the old lintel, and replace it with a full one while im at it.

The problem i find with customers supplying their own materials is they will quiet often buy stuff because because it looks nice, not knowing that there's more to it than that, IE: i once had a customer buy some beautiful free standing bath taps that were supposed to pour like a waterfall into a...

they did, it was called a high level cistern, usually found in outside lavs

use masonry screws, the ones that don't need plugs

i was going to say just fit plastic skirting, then sit back and wait for the **** storm lol but actually id lower the ground level like noseall says first and see if it does the trick before i tried anything else.

just a thought but i wouldn't have windows in the doors, garages are bad enough already for being broken into even without being able to look in first and see motorcycles etc if you need light how about a skylight in the roof?

never mind all that, why is he allowed on site with no face :eek:

cAtLeYx ok you have a degree in construction but reading some of your posts personally i think you tend to overthink stuff, its not rocket science, most of the guys on here do this stuff day in day out and can look at a wall and say straight away thats 4, 5 or 6 or however many without having to...

I would have done the concrete slab first same as your builder has and not after the rest of the build. yes the screed needs time to dry, drying depends on how thick the screed is, 5cm thick about 6 weeks, 6cm about 8 weeks, any thicker and you can add 4 weeks per extra cm

cAtLeYx without wanting to get involved in any arguments if you read the OPs first post, they are going with DPM, insulation, concrete then im assuming screed, not DPM, concrete, insulation then screed. Never done it that way myself but it seems acceptable. Anyway regardless of that i dunno how...

id be more worried as to why it cracked the next day, water doesn't crack concrete

sounds like they knew exactly what they were doing to me :whistle:

why do you want to?

looks nice mate well done

looks like you can remove them on the interior wall sides which are there for symmetry, but not the exterior because as you say, you would need to alter the roof pitch.

im sure there is a formula for how much ventilation your loft needs it all depends on the size cubic feet try googling it im sure youll find it :)

you can buy soffit vents that can be installed afterwards quite easily just drill the holes and they either clip or glue in

there's a pretty good chance that you mean the DPC, it can be made using various materials, including what looks like a narrow strip of plastic which we all seem to think your confusing with a DPM which is normally a large sheet off plastic that's under the floor slab as woody says above