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my partner has a horse, she's always asking me to save her the odd one. so maybe try local stables

if you can walk on it, it sounds like its ok

depends what you mean by quite soft, it wont be anywhere near rock hard after one day, and It will still look damp because it is damp, you don't want it drying out to fast anyway as it will weaken it, if I do a drive I pour water on it for a few days after its laid to stop it drying to quickly

use the calculator on this website http://www.pavingexpert.com/calcall.htm#focus10 but did you not think of using readymix?

a bricklayer or a general builder wouldn't find this very difficult hard to give a price, depends on your location in the country mostly, ideally to make a good job the bricks would need toothing out or your going to need more bricks, this is time consuming as is cleaning the old bricks to...

not built a brick manhole in many years but if I remember rightly, use normal sand but a strong mix, no more than 4-1 and engineering bricks, also I'm pretty sure we used to stagger the joints as well, defiantly the perps anyway. don't use a thick bed, slithers would be better, but engineering...

when cured 6:1 shouldn't wash out with a jetwash was there any frost when they laid them?

went to look at one very similar a few years back, turned out the neighbours had installed a downstairs shower on the opposite side of the wall :)

why didn't you break them up then, people worry to much about it, wear a mask and paper overalls and wet the boards as your breaking them you would have been fine, I break guttering to put in the bags, its not the very dangerous asbestos the risk is very low as joe Malone said

round here you ring the council and they charge you about £120 for some very large bags, ive only used them for guttering but theres enough for a single garage roof they state. you double bag the asbestos then seal it and ring them when its ready to be collected.

personal choice really when old looking brick fireplaces were popular I used to rake out the joints

yep your right it does work in the joints, but I guess it depends on whether the wall is toothed in or if its using some kind of wall tie, its quite possible you may have a straight joint all the way down.

why would it fall off when its screwed from the sides?

how do you know he's not going to double board it? he only asked how to attach the boards to an rsj

I don't think itll make much difference what you use, its only a small piece

yea I wouldn't bother doing all that, that may look feasible in a drawing but in practice that would be a nightmare to do without ripping the paper off lol just cut the outside, if you want to make the corner stronger fill the beading with dot n dab then stick it on. when its skimmed it'll be...

you can use dot n dab or something on underside if you like but once its got the beading on and is skimmed it will be solid enough anyway. you can only cut the outside or it wont fold the right way try it on a small piece, cut one side then just snap the board the opposite way, you'll see...

I knock noggins in the sides then I try to cover the beam in one piece of board by just scoring one side of the board then folding it over to the shape of the beam then slotting it up and over then screw the sides. it is a two man job but works well

it could be causing it but it depends on a few things, how much mortar there is left in the joints, if its a cavity wall or not and what condition is your roof in? as its in the top corner it could be a cracked tile or something, why not post some pictures

I sometimes use the one on ikeas website its free, very easy and although its weighted to their own products most units are standard sizes so you have no problems using other manufacturers