Search results

Planet Rock.

Did you know that the manual for that product does tell you it has to be anchored to the ground, with supplied stakes? Though I can't see that it specifies they must be concreted in.

You'd need to be sure your garden wall is stable enough to support it, otherwise the whole lot could come down. I am not sure concreting in the posts would be much more work than laying the slabs properly. Note that there is a frame around the bottom of the one you linked to, presumably to stop...

Is it wet underneath the slabs you can remove? Any chance a drain passes under that area, maybe going from or to that gully just outside your door? If there is and if the area is damp it's possible a connection under there is come undone (or was never done in the first place) or the pipework...

At least this confirms you need a gate. Hope you make a speedy recovery.

sorry hadn't seen stem's post when i posted mine. you wouldn't need cross braces, apparently :wink:

You would need cross braces to hold the gate together and you would see those through the gaps between the boards.

A lump hammer and sharpish bolster should help. Dunno about anyone else, but I stand the slab against the inside of my leg and hammer down between the concrete and slab. Seems less risk of cracking the slab for one thing.

I'm not sure what the harm would be in leaving the blobs if they are stuck fast. Whether you could leave them depends on how big the blobs are of course.

I'm not sure what the scaffold boards are intended to do in this situation. If you are digging out first then the surrounding ground should be able to contain the subbase. If you are not going to dig out enough and you are laying slabs to a free edge, have a look here for better (longer...

Info on removal options in section 6 of the wall tie manual on this page: http://www.kingfisheruk.com/downloads.php

Don't know what their purpose is there but those get used for hanging pictures: you fasten them to the top of the frame, then place the sawtooth hanger over a nail on the wall. I wonder if someone has had them handy and has improvised a bit to solve some other problem. If the fixings are...

I use DeWalt Extreme 2 masonry bits. Better than anything else I've tried.

Looked into this myself a few years ago but didn't get round to doing it. Actually my estimates suggested it would be prohibitively expensive. This might be useful: http://www.buildeazy.com/greenhouse-1.php

For what it's worth I find the Fischer heavy duty plugs really useful for this kind of job. They seem to me to have more 'grip'. I got some in Wickes though I think they'd packaged them up to look like their own product. Following a tip on here I've even been known to squirt some strong...

We had a lead water main replaced with plastic a few years ago. They used moling equipment to install a run of about 20m or so. Cost about £600.

Could the bags of compost be the problem? I mean, moisture coming from there? It has to go somewhere as they dry out and decompose further.

Is the floor damp at all? (stef99 asked this in the first reply to your original post but I can't see a reply to that.) I would have thought it would be if the damp was coming up from below the shed, rather than being generated inside it somehow. Have you changed what you are storing or...

Since it's a patio (rather than a drive) yes I would use it if I could smash it small enough and compact it. I'd then probably cover it as the PE site suggests.

I probably would as well, but you might want a look at this to help you decide. http://www.pavingexpert.com/faq_subbase.htm