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Don't use silicone sealant as you won't be able to paint over it. I would use Red Devil Onetime filler for the other bits.

You don't have to have a kerb. You can use a mortared edge: http://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag2.htm

try this: http://www.diynot.com/forums/garden/post-holes.370751/

looking good. thanks for the picture.

I have laid some dry, but find it hard to get the levels spot on as there is no 'spring' in the mix and in my experience tapping the slabs on a dry mix makes breakage more likely. So in my garden I now use a wet-ish 6:1 mix. The PE site describes that option somewhere as well I think. You...

loads of info and things to consider here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/cut_in01.htm

What you have described is similar to what I did about 2 years ago, but over a shorter distance in my case. I went deeper than you with the posts: about 300mm I think or even more, with 100mmx100mm posts. I put posts in closer together than you have planned but I doubt that was really...

I wonder if the OP will ever even come back...

Not trying to be awkward, but if you have gravel too close to the top it will be forever spreading over the adjacent paving, especially with a bin going back and forwards.

Depending on how well compacted the gravel is, it might be a pain to get a bin on/off, especially when full.

Start again, probably. Smash the concrete, remove it, lay a bit of hardcore or similar if the ground is soft and/or you need to raise the level a bit after removing the existing surface. Compact the hardcore if you are using it. Then the surface is up to you e.g. lay a few paving stones on...

http://www.pictorialmeadows.co.uk These are grass-free. I haven't used them myself but I have seen them growing, as have thousands if not millions of other people. Though many probably didn't notice.

some packing? e.g. timber, paving slabs, roof tiles, concrete blocks, bricks etc.

I've had two pairs of Tradesafe boots from Wynsors (don't laugh) - a pair of rigger boots, and a pair of black lace-ups. Both pairs have been superb and have lasted years, and stood up to all kinds of rough treatment.

Not so much that planed would doesn't need treating: just that the preservers I've seen aren't intended for it. I suspect it's because they would wash or flake off, but that's just a guess. The sawn timber will be no rougher than the timber you see on regular sawn timber fences. So fine for...

Unless it's freezing, or pouring down with rain, I would attempt it at any time. Be aware that you are looking at planed timber and most shed, fence treatments etc. say they are for rough sawn timber. It will also give a different final look. Also in the link you posted it gives different...

Take your pick from the various stains available for sheds and fences. Plenty of recommendations have been made on here. Personally I have had best results with solvent based Ronseal stuff.

Some decent quality treated stuff, with more treatment applied now and again, should last a while. And you could replace it several times over without spending as much as you'd spend on the red cedar.

Does it have to be red cedar? If it's only for the fencing (in other words, not something you will really come into contact with) why not sawn treated softwood of a similar size, stained to the colour of you choice? Looks like it would only cost about one fifth of the red cedar.

You might try somewhere else. I have a local, very well stocked hire place that only charges £5 each way for delivery, and does pretty much immediate collection/delivery. And lower hire charges than HSS.