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And another quick question. The current thermostat is a Honeywell L641A1005 (from memory). I take it there is nothing special abuot it and that something like this would be fine as a replacement...

thanks for the diagram. I presumed it must be wired up like that but its always nice to have it confirmed. I cant hear anything from the cylinder thermostat despite the water being very hot when turning it up and down. How do you get the top off the valve? I didn't see any screws so I...

The CH can be independently turned on and off via the programmer. Thats how I know that the 2port valve is working as I can hear it shutting off when the HW is turned off.

Got a bit further with this. I didn't manage identify all the pipes due to limited time and cramped spaces. Anyway what I did manage to find out was by running some hot water out and hence ensuring there was a demand for it to heat up the water in the cylinder. Then turning off the HW at the...

Put etu7000 in google and first hit: http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=411+1002458

Great. Thanks for the advice.

Presumably if the HW is turned off at the control timer, the valve should be closed and hence prevent hot water going through the heating element of the cylinder? Would it normally fail "off"? thanks

do you have a manual for the boiler? If so have you checked whether it shows which is which?

If you check the flow direction on the valves (usually marked with an arrow) it should indicate the direction of flow.

Yet another question regarding our old system. Its an open vented system with a Baxi back boiler. At the moment the hot water is verging on scalding. I've turned the thermostat on the front of the cylinder from 70 degrees downto 50 degrees but it doesn't appear to have made much difference...

Surely the obvious thing would be to contact plumbworld and ask them?

Great. thanks for the reply!

We've had some plastering done to repair the walls where the original plaster was blown and also to a badly plastered-over fireplace. We've let it dry out and its about to get painted. I've washed down the old plaster with sugar soap to get rid of the old paste. I know we should put a mist...

I have to admit to have an inherent distrust of anything wireless. I would go for a wired install unless there was a large cost difference in favour of wireless or another extremely compelling reason.

Trouble is that they count all GPs as the same. bit like lumping in plumbers, people running a plumbing business (which employs mulitple plumbers) and someone running a plumbing merchants and dividing it equally to get the average "plumbers" wage.

Seems like you read the same press that says all gas fitters and plumbers earn £50-60k a year. :lol:

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to think about it some more once I've got the current jobs out of the way.

If you look around online there are numerous calculators which take into account all sorts of things like area, height, number of external walls, insulation etc. just google e.g. : http://www.radcalcs.com/

Check whether the bottom of the panel is level with or below the level of the floor. It its level then you should be able to pull it out from the bottom. If its below the floor level then you are going to have to try and flex it in the middle enough to get the bottom over the edge of the floor.

Great. thanks again.