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I should have mentioned I think the problem is hot water related as the pressure always rises when you turn the shower colder. What I mean is, the colder you have the shower, the better the pressure.

Ok, it's connected to a hot water pipe that feeds into the top of the tank. The main feed I suppose you'd call it. It's joined near the top of the tank and runs down into the pump which is on the floor next to the tank. I hope that's clear. :)

Sorry, do you mean how is the pump connected to the hot water tank?

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking it may be an airlock. How do you cure that?

I have a hot water tank with a shower pump connecting to a bathroom shower. The shower pressure is sometimes ok but sometimes it slows down to a trickle and the pump makes all sorts of weird noises. It gets plenty of use but never used to do this. I changed the pump about a month ago because it...

It's actually a Gloworm 240/6 and BG told me years ago that there were no parts available for it anymore. :wink:

Thanks for that. I know of so many people who've had trouble with newer boilers that I think I'll just keep this one going as long as I can. As they say, "if it aint broke, don't fix it."

Thanks for the reply. All the BG fitters who have serviced over the years have said that if I do replace it, I should keep my tank and just get a standard boiler, not a combi. Does that sound like good advice?

It's about 30 years old and British Gas, who service it annually, have been telling me for the last 10 years at least, that it should be replaced. But it never goes wrong and just keeps doing it's job year after year. I know it's massively inefficient, but I don't want to replace it with...

:lol: My son!! Thanks for the reply.

I have 4 foot brick built pillar that's been hit by a car and has a clean break on the mortar about half way down. I know I have to take it off, clean off all the old mortar and replace it. My question is, are there any kind of wedges that can be bought to keep the gap in the mortar, or is there...

Ok, good point. It's an Easiboost Turbo, installed by myself approx 18 months ago and working fine up to now. There is water coming from the shower but the pump isn't kicking in.

It was ok yesterday afternoon when I had a shower, then stopped working in the evening and hasn't worked since. I've checked the fuse and tried draining the hot water tank, but no joy. Any advice on my next move?

My bathroom ceiling is approx 8'x6' and I want to plasterboard it to cover a loft hatch and also because it's not in great condition. I've never used plasterboard before and wondered how easy it is and also, what to fill the cracks between the boards with.

Yes, I did fit it myself as per. As I said, it's only an occasional thing so I suppose it may be happening when there's been a drain on the tank from other things, (washing machine, dishwasher etc). Thanks for the advice. :)

How can it be pulling the tank dry when it's only just been turned on? You can go 24 hours without using the shower and it'll start doing it, so the tank should be full.

Is that bad?

This is a problem that only happens occasionally, the rest of the time it's as smooth as silk. The problem is, you turn the shower on and the water pressure from the shower seems very jerky, (couldn't think of a better word). The shower pump also sounds as though it's labouring. This goes on for...

Sorry, not enough detail. I'm fitting a gravity feed shower with a booster pump. The pump is going in the airing cupboard next to the boiler. The wiring seems pretty straightforward, but I'm wondering where to take the spur from.

If I'm fitting a shower pump in an airing cupboard next to a hot water tank, is it a case of just taking a spur off the nearest supply? I've got the central heating pump in there as well, so could I come off the wirng for that?