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www.stop-think-asbestos.co.uk/pdf_downloads/GAS_ELECTRICALAPPLICANCESLIST.pdf

I would get the Plumber back, you have had 3 problems now since the boiler was moved. Im not saying the plumber has done anything wrong, but moving the boiler may have disturbed water and electrical connections so you wouldnt be in the wrong to get him back and check it over.

Would you say the smell is the drains or the rats? If its a "drain" type smell then you may have a bigger problem, broken drain (where the rats are coming from) If its more of a Roland Rat smell then cementing the hole up is a good idea.

I would still look at the filter option, it not expensive, easy to install (if you removed the heat exchanger and cleaned it, you would do this a piece of p!ss) And its a lot easier to clean out the filter every now and then, instead of cleaning out the plate heat exchanger every 6 months. It...

fit a filter on your heating system to prevent sludge etc entering the boiler. Google Magnaclean to get an idea

Good idea, I've never thought of using a rad tail (y) Always end up turning the van over to find a MI x Copper :whistle:

Ive know a few plumbers who fit combi's because they dont know how to do S or Y plans, and Im not joking :eek:

Sometimes this forum f*cking amazes me

You should have a motorised valve located on the system (near cylinder normally) this could have a faulty micro switch, or stuck which could be causing the boiler to fire up.

just noticed you will be capping off only 2 pipes? I would use what ever you want, but like I said just check and double check

you can use pushfit and compression in walls, but what they are saying is that there's more of a risk of leaks in the future than if you used soldered fittings. (although most repairs I do are soldered joints that have failed, normally because they was soldered incorrect) A lot of consealed...

Would a combined trap and vent be suitable for this problem?

press the red reset button

It's not the only reason why is hot water is poor, if you want to jump in feet first and buy a PCB then crack on. It's an expensive guess, most people would fault find first. Just noticed your user name......makes sense now.

Take a good long look at the diagram that he has drawn, then ask the same question to yourself again. See if you come up with a different solution to your dilemma.

Really??

Its a deal, its a steal....... :shock:

£75 for a faulty PCB, just imagine how much a working one would be? :wink:

+1 for the lead flashing. If monies an issue you could use flashband :D

I need to change my own boiler and I cant be arsed after working on other peoples all week. He can come and do mine next for £950, infact I will round it up to £1000 :)