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Check your wires are properly terminated in the new sockets - sometimes you can trap the insulation and sometimes they can wriggle loose when you refit them. One tightened I was always taught to give them a good yank to make they had all held. Loose wires making a poor connection can cause heat...

You could just replace the grill element.

I just looked at the inside of one of these I fitted in my utility room a little while ago.:cool:

The top (green) terminal block should be right to left N, L, SL - looks like it is 'possible' your L and SL are the wrong way around. The correct way is not to guess but test the purpose of each wire and terminate correctly.

It would have to be a pretty big and therefore noticeable leak to increase the electricity bill to the extent the OP has highlighted. I think it could one of the following: A. You are spending more time than you used to in the shower and therefore using more water and thus electricity. B...

Yes. Just check that the socket is not already a spur. You will probably need a 3Amp fuse in the FCU but check with the manufacturers instructions of the products you are fitting.

One other thing to consider both in terms of functionality and potential time and therefore cost for your electrician is that most of your back boxes will probably be metal - maybe 16mm deep or 25mm deep. While this is a relatively small unit and it will fit into the 25mm back boxes, the...

I would imagine that you will also need a switch live - so you need to pull three core and earth through to the switch. How easy it is will depend on whether you can use you current T&E as a guide. How much - anyone's guess.

Yes but I'm pretty certain this is an American Boiler (water heater) - probably about 4.5kw - not sure what the price per kwh is in California.

See video Do you have a timer on this immersion? Has that been altered, checked or is perhaps broken and permanently on?

If it has worked before and you haven't touched the wiring then the timer unit could have gone. Sounds like it is operating only on switch live.

Not directly from the notes section. H7 itself references 553.1.7.

Just looking at Bernardgreen's diagram - if I interpret it right you need 3 core and earth - N and Earth (out terminal) as normal then the two remaining cores go into the live out terminal - call them PL and SL. You then have a second switch through which the incoming PL, N, E run to and...

Switch on = PIR on = Light on when PIR activated for timer set period. Switch off = PIR off = no light Switch on and off - x times with x seconds = Light permanently on. (check instructions for x)

Reading those instructions the SL is already pre-wired into the main lamp unit (loose) terminal block and you have no need to worry about it. Your only concern is to provide the LNE to the back plate fixed terminal block.

Assuming you have the lamp TTC has posted the instructions for, then the lamp has a back plate and the main lamp unit both of which come apart. The back plate has a (fixed) terminal block - the main lamp unit is pre-wired to the other half of the terminal block (loose). To operate the lamp as...

Given what you have now said - the second guy is now also correct. Nothing to stop you putting anything on its own circuit so first guy is still correct - since it also gives you the option to increase the size of the machine at a later date particularly if he uses 4mm² cable and appropriate...

Notes to Table H7. Onsite Guide Yellow edition. Appliances built into kitchen furniture (integrated appliances) should be connected to a socket outlet or switched fused connection unit that is accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use. Alternatively, where an appliance is...

While I agree it is not a regulation, I'm not sure it is just fashion either - after all it still appears as Guidance in both the Yellow On-Site-Guide and the Electricians Guide to the Building Regulations. Although a cluster of 20A DP Grid switches (with name plates) do look better.

The system has gone mad on me....