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Must have the wrong instructions then. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Varilight/V-Pro_Eclique_Dimmer_Instructions_814.pdf

Doesn't the Eclique dimmer allow you to bring live through the slave?

Then it is live, switch live and earth from the upstairs (lighting circuit) landing light ceiling rose to the downstairs gang 1 - Live into L1 and switch live into L2 - or their equivalent. An arrow out is sometimes shown on dimmers as switch live (L2). Read the Manufacturers instructions. Then...

Okay - that's good to hear a sensible approach is being taken. Houses built prior to the mid 60's invariably didn't have earth connections for the lighting circuit. The general advice is two fold. Either stick to Class 2 (double insulated) light fittings and switches - your plastic ceiling rose...

So it is a two gang switch and not a dimmer then????? In which case there are no master/slave issues - run live/switch live from your upstairs light ceiling rose to the landing switch - put the live in L1 and Switch Live in L2. Run three core and earth strappers from the landing switch to the...

Cryptic questions asked without all the information needed will get cryptic answers back. As I said earlier in this and your other posts, it is clear that you are not currently capable of resolving this problem without the help of an electrician. Not, by the way, an imaginary 'three day' one...

It was suggested in a previous post that this is Pyro.

I thought we highlighted the missing earth problem with your last post - use the same method to resolve this missing earth - you did resolve it didn't you before fitting that new light? Also the question of what type of new light you were fitting was not answered then - perhaps you can answer...

Oh Okay then.

Check out the terminal block in the intermediate switch part of the diagram - that is the one I was referring to. While we all accept that the questionable intermediate switch the OP purchased is a fake - I liked the idea of an intermediate switch with some form of 'common' loop built in to...

You can't do that.

If you are not an electrician who is a member of the competent persons scheme you (he) cannot legally do any of the work you have suggested.

If it hasn't got the CE mark then it is unlikely to be genuine - the BS mark is normally but not always moulded into the rear of the switch/socket. Given there is no CE mark and this BS mark is stamped on - plus Retrotouch do not make this model insofar as the rear design etc etc - it is a fake.

I assume the six other light switches are also dodgy. If so and in any case I would ring Retrotouch (not the reseller) tell them about the problem - ask for your money back and free replacement products because you appear to have been sold both dangerous and illegal products on their...

No you are not - there is no CE mark just a CCC mark which is for the Chinese market. Plus retrotouch put the model number on the back of their switches. Have a look at the rear of the socket picture shown.

I would contact retrotouch directly - bring it to their attention and ask them to send you a genuine 'intermediate' switch. They need to know that one of their suppliers is selling a Chinese knock off.

So the wiki link is wrong then?

I love a good mystery..... Their website also has a page on how to tell if one of their products is a forgery. http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/genuine.html

JohnW2 - I'm confused - why are you lost? http://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:intermediate_chocknonharm The way I see this 'intermediate?' switch by retrotouch incorporates the Com link (terminal block) into the switch itself therefore doing away with the need for a terminal block. Or am I...

JohnW2 the Touch and Remote switches have the same diagrams for both 2 way and intermediate switches. http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/user/Brochures/Retrotouch Catalogue March 2015 Web.pdf page 19. I think I'm confused but I'm not sure now!! Time for Tea.