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Are you in an hard water area? If so your pipes will be lined with limescale anyhow. Do a lead water test to. I to have a lead water main all things considered (hard water area, test fine) I decided to keep it. Precautionary I run the water a little longer before drinking.

You want a shellac based primer such as Zinsser BIN or Dulux Trade stain blocker. They're quite expensive, a pain to apply and have a strong smell for a few days but it's exactly the product required.

I'm sure most of us would happily gain another inch if we could. The door way you say? Wouldn't bother.

If I'm using tape I always put a good first coat on then whip the tape off straight away. On the second coat I cut in by hand but you've got a nice straight edge to work with. Silk is always harder to get a good finish especially patching in but you'll be fine doing so presuming the stripped...

Always remove tape as soon as you've painted. Once you let the paint cure it forms a film over the tape edge thus removing the tape also lifts the paint on the walls. If you ever forget to remove the tape run a sharp knife along the tape edge before lifting. Yeah depending how much has come...

As Mattylad says it's probably easier now to remove the lot. Get a sharp edged scraper and it'll whip off. If in the above picture your happy you've found sound well adhered paint a fine plaster filler feathered out/rubbed down should hide the painted edge. Mist coat any bare plaster. If it...

Did you mist coat the walls or water down the green on the first coat? Looks like the paint hasn't adhered to the plaster.

Again never paid any of that when we applied nor is it mentioned under planning portal for the neighbour consultation/larger extension scheme. The £96 fee is mentioned though...

That's a shame it was definitely free when first announced but doesn't surprise me. Although if you put feelers out there first and no objections may be a worthy small price to pay.

It was a few years back now but we supplied a basic drawing of our proposal (we built under building notice rather than full plans). This proposal is sent to the direct neighbours who have 21 days to object. If no objections within 21 days the council then have 21 days to give the go ahead. The...

Under the neighbour consultation scheme you can extend upto 6 meters on a semi. This is a fee free application. Have a search for neighbour consultation scheme. Edit: Just realised it's now called larger extension scheme which you mentioned. Was called neighbour consultation when we applied...

Always mist coat bare plaster anything from 60/40 emulsion to water. After 5 years you may want to wipe it down with a damp fibre cloth to remove any dust or dirt before painting.

You can't beat real grass. Your lawn looks in good shape and 5 minutes mowing a week isn't to taxing. Keep it!

The grids I used came with built in membrane it worked out at roughly £8.50 per sqm which soon adds up but I can't stress the difference it makes. Yeah the gravel I used is 20mm black basalt even this size we get a few pieces onto the road the smaller size would be worse regards cars. Angular...

I was in a similar situation had a large area but couldn't stretch to tarmac, paving etc so used gravel but did it properly, grids, membrane etc it's been great. You get the odd weed and leaves but once a week a have a quick whip around keep ontop. Consider using 20mm gravel especially with...

Eh? Did you mean elicit? How was I being elicit? You have integrated downlights which have built in bulbs none replaceable when the bulb goes the full fitting has to be replaced. I queried this may have been one of those thus why the bulb could not be removed? Surprisingly they're called...

Nevermind removed them now to they were infill for I presume an old back boiler.

No it's more decorative going board it, brick slip it and have an real oak fascia beam. Getting there but concerned by the amount of what appear to be floating bricks inside. They're not tied into anything?

Cheers for input 666. I've removed two courses the crack is visible from the bottom to. It doesn't appear to be going anywhere right now. I'm tempted to fit a lintel lower and bricking up tight to the old lintel. I'd lose a bit of height on the opening though but no biggie.

Hi there, Thanks for any input. I'm opening up our 1940's fireplace and have exposed the original concrete lintel it's a good size and bearings good only concern is a vertical crack? I'm presuming it'll have rebar in if so would this be okay left on or best to remove? Cheers