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I've never been able to find a really good plasterer and I've had my whole house skimmed or boarded throughout the years by different tradesmen hoping to find a good one. Just yesterday I had a room skimmed they've not scrim taped where the ceiling meets wall and any bits which required a...

Looks like google sketch up. Frank appears to be good at it.

Would a 100mm x 100mm concrete lintel with small beds not fit once the wooden lintel and mortar bed are removed? This way you will require minimal packing.

Makes sense. Pay someone to skim the walls to hide an originally bad finish to then wallpaper the wall to hide the bad finish the plasterers done. The multitude of plasterers sins shouldn't be there if he's good at his job surely?

If your happy to leave the valves there to just close the valves and undo the tails slightly ensuring you catch the water in something adequate. I use a plastic rubble bag and hold that under the tails as the water drips out. If its not flowing enough either open the tails a bit more or release...

Haha, well you wanted a job done by the book. Your house is currently standing fine and has been standing fine for years without external lintels. What's the stigma in fitting a correctly treated angle iron when you currently have nothing at all? Regards cavity trays do you currently have damp...

Soil is fine just make sure you're at least 2 courses below your damp course with your ground level.

Full fill between the joists with celotex or similar fit it nice and snug foam fill any gaps along joist edges if required. Overboard the whole area with 25mm celotex or similar it must be foil backed insulation as this will act as your vapour barrier. Foil tape any joins between insulation...

I'd agree but the wall coverage is probably 80% brick so its got to make some difference. Either way the bricks will be fine you may find once the weather picks up especially if its south facing it dries up but it will only be temporary depending on the weather but may put your mind at ease.

An F2 brick absorbs less water, less water absorption = less water penetration, no?

Which if only being a single skin is better as in that case they'd all be F2 rated and this would minimise the risk of rain penetration through to the inside.

Your damp course is working perfectly. If you ever see prolonged damp brickwork above your DPC it would then be worth investigating. Have a search for brick durability the bricks below damp will be F2 rated and can withstand wet, freezing conditions fine.

Not quite as I mentioned above they introduced the neighbour consultation scheme. Anything up to 6 meters on a semi is correct. You submit plans and they get in touch with direct neighbours and propose the plans. Where as someone can object to your normal planning application and it be over...

Have a search for neighbour consultation scheme on a semi with neighbours consent you can go out up to 6 meters. I did this and went out 4 meters it was free to submit the application with my local council. You will need building control and they will determine whether your footing depth is...

80mm celotex between joists pushed up tight. Foil tape any joins and foam any gaps along joist edges. Board with foil backed plasterboard and skim. This will stop warm moist air hitting the cold underside of your roof. Pointless leaving a gap if you have no ventilation.

Sigh hope you get it resolved bud. Bloody hate **** tradesmen. I don't mind paying good money for skilled work but when you start to question whether its much better than what you could do yourself it really ****es you off. Some good advice here...

Jesus and I get annoyed when I have to do a little rubbing down after a spreads been. I wouldn't be happy with that in the slightest I hope you haven't paid yet. Whoever did it should be ashamed.

Also worth mentioning if your adjusting hot and cold keep any dead legs to a minimum. None at all would be best. Have a search for pipe dead legs if your unsure. And always keep your hot pipe runs above your cold when you can. All bases covered.

If as you say its a combi boiler turn the mains cold feed off followed by the boiler then open all taps which the pipes feed and you will be fine to adjust pipework.

God forbid the owner of this site who pays the hosting and domain renewal yearly using similar advertising techniques 1000's upon 1000's of forums use to try and cover their overheads. Some forums won't even allow you to read text without registering. The block only appears to none registered...