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Couple of down points for his system: he can't drill into toughened glass - ruling out repairs to most doors and low level windows once the unit has been cleaned out, the original problem, 'hole' from where air is entering the unit is not found or blocked the dessicant in the unit is...

If the room has a fire door, then their is no need for a fire escape in the window. A fire escape window needs to have an opening of at least 0.33sq m.

There's a JCB branded phone which is shock, bump, dust proof and water resistant. [/code]

Integrated side panels depend on the size and what type of threshold you go for. I think it is possible to have integrated side lights. How wide do you want each panel?

Thanks. Agreed, pretty redundant although I can see where the original need for it came from. Sometimes slotted screws can be a pain in awkward or tight corners with a cordless driver.

I've bought a new box set of drill bits and driving bits. In it there are a couple of rounds plastic bits called finders? They are common with most of these type of box sets. What are they and how do I use them?

Selecta! Have you seen their beads? More floppy than paper! I manufacture Shield but use the easier type of bead to glaze (straight rather than the ovolo) than what U-fit use.

Thanks. The barrier membrane has printing on it saying 'face this side out'. So does that face the inside of the room or the brick?

Bit confused here. I've got a single skin block wall which I want to insulate with Celotex. So the plan is as recommended by their website: Wall - Celotex (with joints sealed by foil tape) - 25mm battens screwed through Celotex into wall - plasterboard screwed to battens. The website...

Well, that will be upto the RGI to fit after seeing what the boiler manufacturer recommends. I take it you concur with 22mm for the feed and returns, and 15mm branches/tees to the rads? But at least I can start laying pipes whilst the boards are up.

So to be on the safe side: 22mm (copper!) gas feed to the boiler 22mm (plastic) feed and returns 15mm (plastic) branching off to the rads

??

Thanks. So 22 as the main line but 15 tee'ing off to each rad is OK?

I'm putting the pipe work down for CH in a 2-up 2-down house I'm refurbing. RGI will be fitting the boiler. I'm using plastic throughout except for where the pipes will be seen. I've read (here) that copper must be used within 1 metre of the boiler. Is this to safeguard the plastic against...

Thanks for the advice. Got the roof up today.

The plan was to cut out an 'inverse' birds mouth in the rafter so it sits square on the hanger.

Thanks Noseall. It's single skin because the overall width is 2.1m so every inch is precious. If I was to build it using a 12" cavity wall I'd lose too much space. Single skin and boards means the overall thickness of the wall is: (20mm render) + 100mm block + 50mm battens + 50mm Celotex...

Hi, I'm building a single skin (with thermal panels to meet regs), single storey extension and need some help regarding the roofing. 1. How does the wall plate at the lower end of the roof need to be attached to the single skin block work? I read of bedding it on mortar, strapping it...

Thanks for the replies chaps. It's not particularyly cold here (Rugby, Warks). AFAIK, the pump is fine, can 'feel' the water running through the system. Just had another look and it seems like it's only the starter flame I can see, so maybe that is where the problem lies.

Ideal Classic FF370, about 4 years old