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Scratch day one, top coat next day. A sponge would give a textured finish, I have used an artex roller before for a more textured finish.

And if the holes are very dry just dampen them.

Just like putting a hole in a water tank, well maybe not as bad.. If you deffinatly have to fix heavy stuff, just do it on the walls that are not against earth and use stainless screws.

No worries, happy to help, (stuck in doors with the flu!) also dont puncture the membrane fixing the plaster board, use a suitable adhesive to stick the boards to the insulation, which in turn should be stuck to the membrane.

I know its a bit new so I've done a bit of my own R&D on this. Fibres in the plaster, I've just patched one of my ceilings in my house where a cupboard was, rest of the ceiling is artex, unibonded the old artex and floated the whole ceiling with bonding with fibres in the mix, then skim with...

I'd try and get something thats more in keeping with what you have, theres now pently of companies doing lime based motars, they also sell horse hair, these materials will help your house remain dry unlike the new light weight gypsum plasters which attract damp, not disrespect to joe-90 but I...

And if you get a lot of sun on the areas to be done dont get black, it will be creaking and moving like a good'un, probably poping off the joints and looking rubbish in no time.

I'm sure the limit is 2.5 metres which is about 8 1/2 foot.. You can still get crittal windows, powder coated now and double glazed, you then keep the look of your house and keep warm, jobs a good'un. Well if you want it like that of course....

Cant say for sure if its the same stuff but I use the cheaper stuff now days with no problems, to be sure I'd tank the whole basement/cellar. No point doing a bit, plastering and finding you have a damp patch. If the wall that you plan to insulate is pretty good you can bed the jablite on the...

That extra rapid stuff does what it says on the packet... its quick!

Really depends on your lock, if its shootbolt and espag its going to be hard. I tend to remove the glass and gently bar the window open if I cant move the mechanism as you have said.

Looks like Duraflex, if it is it uses a shuffle bead which can be a complete pain to get in and looking at the left bead it doesnt appear fully home/fitted any way, so start with that one, have a go at taking it out, then you can measure the glass inc thickness and have a go at putting the beads...

Search 'Mitre Master' and look for local firms near you. Or try..... Glyngary Dont know if they deal with the public but worth a call.

Whats the matter with Jablite? Cheaper and as good as you need under the floor.

Not directed at you fella, just seems strange to me to use a water based material in a damp situation....

Deffo save money BUT you then take on the responsibility, i.e. say a brickie runs up to a proplem he might just say 'not my job' and I always say to a client, if I turn up for work and I cant (work) because the project manager has mucked up and its not ready, I still want my days money.

Why acrylic leveler? surely if the floor is damp it would break it down?, I would prefer to use a cement based 'wet screed' then liqiud DPM

I've just completed my loft at home and if I never do another one, (unless its for silly money :D ) it will be too soon! One word.... nightmare.

Cant see the internal walls being built off the slab so bitumen after the dpc. Why not just the cromaprufe all over the floor, its what its for. 2 or three coats, will stick to the old bitumen and create a good seal. Go up the wall approx 2-3 course to cover the old dpc.

Agree with Nosall prices...cept maybe the loft. more like 20k.. if you mean a break down of cost on the removal of garage to make way for the extension I'm sure that would almost be a freebie in the cost of the extension, much cheaper to convert to a room (usually) than remove and rebuild.