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Heatline are based in Bedford and are not stocked by many merchants that I use. I think they are better known for their column radiators than boilers & I heard somewhere that the boilers are manufactured in Turkey. The best programmable stat, IMHO, is the Honeywell CM67. The RF version is...

I've fitted three of the Heatline condsensing combis and they require the normal volt free relay to replace the bridge on the wiring block. Any battery powered or RF stat will be fine except those that switch 230V.

That's what tells you if the wiring to the valve and if the valve itself is working correctly - so everything to do with it :)

Removing the radiator whilst full of water is not as difficult as you might think. Have a builders rubble bag ready, Shut off both valves, loosen the 3/4" union and catch the small amount of water that comes out. If you have floorboards, loosen the valve on the other side and then carefully lift...

What voltage are you getting on orange from the valve when both are running?

http://www.circuit-hydraulics.co.uk/acatalog/REMS_Hot_Dog_2.html But I think there are cheaper ones available for about 50 quid

Hire out a power flushing machine for about £50 and then DIY it

Buy some brass backing nuts?

Yeah but if you have it upside down and there's a leak, there goes the electronic doodahs

Hold on a second ... The olive shouldn't disappear anywhere. It should have compressed against the copper pipe and should be nestling up against the bottom of the valve. When you undo the nut it should just 'be there'. Are you certain that you assembled the valve correctly? and did you...

Well OK, the fact that your systems layout is as it is doesn't mean that you have to have the motorised valve upside down. All you actually need to do is alter the pipework so the pumped flow is in a suitable position. Or am I missing something?

Where from?

Where was the old motorised valve then?

Well OK, just think of it like this .. for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Nut tightens, olive compresses :D

The olive is designed to clamp onto the copper pipe as the nut is tightened up. Are you tightening the nut up firmly? Oh, I take it you haven't got a push fit rad valve have you? - if the chrome nut came and olive came with the pack then this isn't likely.

This isn't all that coherent. What does corrent mean? do you mean correct? as the collar is no more? what does this mean? I'm guessing that the old nut does not fit the new valve. Take the olive off the copper pipe and remove the nut. Put the new nut over the pipe, then the olive, then screw...

The sheered off arbour isn't accessible or visible at all. Actually the chances of anything falling out are nill as I always had a bit of a struggle getting whatever bit I was using out of the chuck. Knackered drill I think - thanks for all the advice.

The people here are only trying to help, there is no conceivable heating related problem that they cannot identify. Why not start all over again from scratch?

It's a relatively easy job if you have all the tools and fittings you need before you start. Depending on where the new radiator is to go, and assuming you do not have microbore, you may find it easier to feed the new rad from the flow and return to an existing rad as opposed to the 22mm...

I think if you replace both valves it will solve your problem(s)